The Isle, The funny dinosaur game where you lose all your progress because of a decision you made an hour ago, as unforgiving as this game is and comprehensive as this guide may be in giving you various tips and strategies to surviving the many situations you will be thrown in. There will be situations that are unwinnable, no matter what you do, and as applicable as all these strategies and tips are, what may work for one person, may not work for another. The isle being a multiplayer game has a constantly evolving playerbase that consistently learns, forms new strategies to counter old ones, and is all around unpredictable. As unfortunate as it is, this guide merely allows you to better understand the games species better through rigorous testing, crowdsourcing, and general facts.
Since everyone has different skill levels, what may fool one player may not fool another. The guide will also be updated as the game itself updates, bringing in new information, strategies, and overall uniqueness. Now on to the guide itself

The Isle (currently) has 13 species to choose from, as well as a few extra species that aren't playable. lets start with the unplayable species

Description - These small scavengers are infamous for being pesky little buggers when they come to
any bodies you may drop. they're great cleaners and will strip any unattended bodies very quickly. These little pests also have a tendency to raid nests, they'll attack any hatchlings they find.

Stats - idk they're so fragile and do so little damage it isn't worth measuring

Strats - Rip And Tear. Until It Is Done

Description - Small flying scavengers, basically a compy with wings, they also spawn when bodies
drop and basically never land to eat it anyways, however spotting the pterodactylus can inform you of a body, whether or not its edible is hard to tell, but that's the only real way to use them in a practical way they also have a tendency to maul just about anything around a body, for juvis and smaller dinos, this can hurt quite a bit. most of the time it's just nagging

Stats - idk too much effort to try and measure this kind of stuff for a tiny ass ai

Strats - do you need strategies to deal with the pigeon? ugh... fine. Lead them towards areas they'll crash into walls and such, this gets them on the ground. and makes them easy to chomp

Description - Cowards. Idk if they can even attack anymore. the things do nothing but run, pathetic

Description : Man, they're fragile, barely do damage. pitiful honestly. they have a gun now but it's basically a peashooter, doing the same amount of damage their kicks do. only good part is you can spam the thing. 15 damage for all attacks (truly amazing i know) F toggles a lil flashlight. and x is to go prone

Pros - Semiaquatic, This means it can very effectively avoid both land predators and the big predator of deino in the water
- For its size it has very high damage potential, being atm the only dino that can effectively oneshot its own species in one attack (Alt left click on the head of another beipi)
- Very manueverable in water
- Its only real stamina dependent thing is running and swimming fast. none of its attacks use stamina and its jump even has decreased stamina over most of the roster
- Has some of the best fall damage resistance surprisingly, you can really throw this thing from some impressive heights and be fine
- Claws can actually give some heavy bleeding damage, on troodons and other small predators this can be easily lethal
- Omnivorous and can therefore eat from a wide selection of things, can even forage underwater for potential food sources
- Can take a small beating, you can even tank a utah bite and be fine, assuming its not a headshot

Cons - Very vulnerable on land, i do not recommend going any significant distance from water without good reason
- In smaller stages they are weaker than ever. although being semiaquatic can keep them safe, they are very fragile
- Cannot outswim a motivated deinosuchus, best option to avoid them is hop on land and flee or even dive underwater to try and lose them
- Has a moderate amount of water drain, not as bad as deino but still not the best
- has no water sense unlike the predator it shares its domain with

.'. Red Currant - located at the river delta, easy to find, old legacy bush

.'. Crab - Can be foraged for or just hunted on the beach, they are a good source of nutrition

.'. Schooling Fish - Swim around the little ripples on top of the water and you may find a school of fish, going up to these schools and attacking them yeilds some delicious fish to consume(if you want to see fish types refer to pteranodon schooling fish diet)

.'. Horned Melon - found in swamp. haha horny melon-

S Wild Potato Root - Found in river delta area, dig em up

S Sumac - A swamp dwelling, red berry producin, health regen givin kind of a plant.

// Wild Potato Vine - Exactly the same as the root, only identifiable by smell, where you don't dig it up

// Frog - Found around water sources, particularly swamp, easy to kill. easy to eat. good snacks

// Russula - Teel swamp dwelling mushrooms

Migration Zones - Swamp, Riverdelta (You can still forage and find AI like crabs, schooling fish, and frogs outside of your migration zones to eat)

Misc - Can forage by going to the bottom of any water source, fresh or saltwater (you can forage in the ocean) latching onto the bottom of that water body and sniffing, in which you'll eventually smell bubbles. go to the source of the bubbles and forage the bubbles, idk what all you can get but i always get crabs from it, idk if you can get stuff like frogs.
- As mentioned previously beipi can latch to the bottom of bodies of water while swimming, its as easy as holding the crouch key until you latch onto the bottom
- You can leap out the water, height depends on your speed going up, if your deeper, you gain more speed as you go up and therefore more height when you burst out the water
- You can use all attacks, on land, in water. hell even mid air dive you can use attacks
- Regain some oxygen by executing a dive
- Has a couple different swimming speeds, ontop of the waters surface you swim slowest, underwater you swim a little slower than a deino, But if your constantly diving you about match a deino swimming on the surface of the water in speed. if the deino is swimming underwater though it will easily outspeed you no matter what you do
- If not latched or actively moving underwater you will passively float to the surface of the water
-Jumping into the water auto initiates a dive assuming the water is deep enough
- Pack cap of 12, the most of any dino. duck cult
- Gains water overtime by relaxing in water, same as deino
- Cannot graze
- Can fish for schooling fish by swimming around and biting the school of fish to get a fish to eat.

Combat Stats - Peck is 20 damage + a little bleed, Swipe is 25 damage + alot of bleed, Alt swipe is 75 damage and major bleed, the alt attack seems to be divided into 3 seperate damage attacks all in one move, stats remain the same in water and in air mid-dive
- Beipis alt attack costs 2%. jump is 5% of your stamina

Stamina Stats - (Land/Running) Around 1.3 kilometers of distance, with a run time of around 2:25 with a regen time of 1:45 (sitting) and about 5 minutes (standing)

- Carbs Diet (Land/Running) Only 1,750 meters of distance, a run time of 3:10

Swimming - distance you can swim above water is around 750 meters, with a swim time of 2:25, and regen of 5 minutes, Doing some fun math we can also calculate beipis swimming speed to be around 20.5 kph give or take

- Carbs Diet (Swimming) Distance of... No change in any stats, distance, swim time or even regen

Underwater Swimming - The distance you can cover is halved, being 600 meters with a swim time of 1:15, if you are underwater you also cannot regen stam, even while clinging. if your stam is fully empty you cannot ascend or autofloat to the surface. Using the same method for speed calculation as swimming on the surface, we can calculate beipis underwater swim speed to be around 29 Kph
- Carbs Diet (Underwater) same as stam diet swimming, no noticeable change

Growth Time - Perfect Diet only takes about 30 Minutes, on 30% growth it only takes about 40 minutes, 1 diet it takes around 55 minutes
Sanctuary ends at 51%, And... Beipi is immune to bees entirely, bees will not attack you even at full adult

Dehydration/Starvation/Oxygen - Beipi will dehydrate on land after 20 minutes, and starve out after 30 minutes, Beipi runs out of oxygen underwater after 1:45

Scent Range - 350 Meters

Strats - Take a mixup of land and water, whenever you feel threatened on land, go to the water, threatened in water, go on land. most juvi carnivores don't wanna tussle with you and you can oneshot an unsuspecting troodon with an alt attack. surviving as the beipi isn't all too hard, most land carnivores can either be fought by the waterside with a combination of your bleed and raw damage from alt attacks and slashes or fled from into the water.
- when it comes to pteras you can do one of two things, one: hide underwater and be pretty much untouchable occassionaly coming up for oxygen, or two: use your dive ability to jump up and take the ptera head on, since you can attack in air you can jump up as the ptera swoops over to get in good hits, or knock them in the water, which is certain death
- when it comes to deinos, you can avoid them underwater in underwater bushes and such since they can't detect you while underwater, or you can run up on land to escape, they may lunge after you so make sure not to hop onto land when they're right behind you, also don't try diving over lunges, i doubt it'll work out very well
- The deeper the water source often the better it is for protection, shallow rivers make it so terrestrial dinos have a much easier time running in after you to eat you, and depending how shallow, certain dropoffs of the river that harbor deep points may also hide deinos that you can't see until your in the deep spot with them.

Diets - at adult its really up to you, S is always great if you expect to be brawl heavy, and aren't looking for a stamina based diet. whereas the full carbs diet fits the run away playstyle much better, but it's pretty meh, only about 45 seconds of running added and no swimming buff

Nesting - nesting as beipi is relatively simple, make a nest with sticks, probably by the waterside, coast, or even on a rock if you can stash it up there. just do it somewhere that deinos won't notice and is a bit of a hussle for most terrestrial predators to get to. beipis nest in clutches of 8 eggs, the babies can't eat solid food until about 26%, and since its a stick nest it needs stick to stay heated, once babies hatch just keep them around the water, at their size they can easily hide underwater from deinos, on land excursions its best to keep them close incase anything rolls up on your babies, all around pretty simple

Pros - about the same speed as carno with three diets, add mobilize call and you have the fastest (land) dino in the game
- pretty good turn radius even with its immense speed
- excellent jump height and has the best fall damage resistance of any dinosaur
- can stun things around its size and smaller. dryos it can knockdown completely
- As skinny as it looks, it can take some pretty heavy damage, although a good carno charge or deino bite will end you, you can tank a bit of damage and live to tell the tale
- for as few diet options as you have it actually gives you alot of map freedom
- Has plenty of stam and some decent stamina regen
- In juvi stages its even fast as ♥♥♥♥

Cons - Although a good gang of these can bully some random cerato, the galli is not particularly designed for combat. which makes sense it runs away. but against utah a pounce will pin you, pachy is almost untouchable. the only things you can really bully are juvis and smaller creatures that your kick will stun
- Incentivised to be loud, to go fast you gotta be loud. although the mobilize call is optional it puts you in a position of vulnerability at all times. not in the catchable way, but that every predator knows your coming, and can set up a fun little ambush
- Acceleration isn't the best if you get caught lackin your not gonna have a good time, especially if your going from standing still to running

.'. Variegated orange - A common staple around the plains biomes, you'd be surprised how many other plains dinos have these one their diet! like... baby pachys...

.'. Crab - Easy to find on coast. or... you could... no thats too evil... well.. you could steal one from a beipi if you find one holding a crab. just a thought....

.'. Mountain Ash - A easy to find plant in the highlands migration zones! oh- the baby teno just ate the one you were going for... No worries we'll just find another one!

S Agave - Funny aloe vera plant, common in plains biomes.

S Sunchoke Flowers - All around the lands of center. Theres Only Room For One Of Us Little Pachy

S Radish Flowers - A easy to find highlands food, damn tenos keep eating it all- maybe you should kick their numbers down a bit...

S Fireweed - A pink flowering plant found in the highlands area

// Cashew - A tall tree like plant that drops cashews, pretty cool

// Frog - Cmon you can find these by yourself. they're around like any water source... is that beipi holding a frog?...

// Pumpkin - Sharing is good. sharing is good. we can share with the juvis. we can share....

// Radish Root - None Of You Can Have It. It's ALL MINE. ALL MINE. I WILL KICK YOU TO DEATH. MINE-

Migration Zones - Highlands, Plains River (can still forage for crabs and frogs)

Misc - Like beipi but on land, it can forage around in burrows to find stuff like compy's and frogs
- tapping left or right click respectively while running makes you kick with your left or right leg, just a cool little detail
- you can kick while jumping i guess
- Has "paranoia sounds" in thick jungles, twigs snapping, footsteps, etc.
- Pack limit of 8 members, Solid numbers for galli

Combat Stats - Kick does 70 Damage, normal kick knocks down dinos around 250 kilos, and will not stun beyond that point. Alt kick knocks down around 150 kilos, and stuns up to the 250 kilo mark. Other gallis however, seem exempt from this rule, as an alt kick will stun another galli . the kick also applies bleed. Alt attack has no change other than being directional. and peck you already know the damage of
- Diets and mobilize call, directly affect speed, with one diet you run 49 kph, which isn't bad but carno will easily catch you, with all diets its 55. basically matching carnos speed. the type of diets don't matter, as long as you have 3 slots filled. and if you have all 3 diets and use mobilize call? your speed gets increased to 70 KPH! a massive boost. the speed doesn't change based on how many gallis but the duration of the boost appears to change
- Jump costs 6% stamina, the kicks while running costs 5% stamina. alt attacks cost 2% and can only be used while stationary

Stamina Stats - Distance is 3,750 meters, the run time is 4 minutes, and regen time is 4 minutes as well (sitting) and 7 minutes (standing) (all stats in stamina assume max 3 diet speed)

Carbs diet - Distance increases to 5 kilometers, with a run time of 5:20

Growth Times: Perfect diet: 1 hour, 30% growth 1 Hour 10 minutes, On one diet Its Around 1 Hour 25 Minutes
Sanctuary cutoff begins at 36% Not long after at about 40% the bees begin stinging

Starvation/Dehydration - After 45 minutes both your water and food run out, conveniently the same amount of time for both

Scent Range - 350 Meters

Strats - Dryo on steroids, due to its high speed its one of the few dinosaurs that can so actively thrive in the open plains carefree. of course you need some caution at times but if you can see your predators and be able to accelerate before they catch up you'll be just fine. galli thrives on being a ♥♥♥♥ to juvis and other small tiers, There Can Only Be One Of Us On This Island After All.
- In general just play flighty, don't stop moving, dealing with any large creatures can basically be summed up as run in the opposite direction and your fine, even if your all alone you about match carnos speed and if they somehow catch up just juke em. galli is twice as agile. make sure to stay vigilant though, that acceleration will get the best of you if your not paying attention, especially when utahs pounce gets involved
- for smaller predators like troodon, just keep moving, standing still is doom but running around not only makes you harder to hit but remember you can easily stun them with one kick if you land it and you outspeed them. one kick should be all it takes on troodon. and if you feel like you're losing, just run away.

Diet - Hands down best diet is carbs diet all the way, perfect diet is of course always the best while growing but for a runner like this that stamina diet hits different, whats not to love?

Nesting - Gallis create mound nests with clutches of six, and start eating solid food at about 14% when it comes to nesting i mean you can nest just about anywhere you want. although i would recommend nesting high up with your jump ability the utahs could raid high up nests like that. you could also nest in the plains, which sounds dumb but if you placed your nest in say, a bush in the middle of center. well for one predators will be seen a mile away, and the nest remains pretty hidden. any predators that come too close you can have some adult gallis lead away and lose them. and when babies hatch they're already hella fast, and using mobilize call with them will only allow them to run faster. honestly pretty easy nesting

Pros - Strong health, Strong damage, Fast speed. All around it's a pretty solid pick for a dino
- Le Venom, of course you have to properly apply the venom. but once you do, boy are they in for a trip
- Bucks VERY Fast, So gl omni mains

Cons - Funnily enough it has a few certain weaknesses that don't seem to get as abused nearly as much as they should.
- Hallucinations are not a big fan of mud, water, even stuff like cliffs and rocks. they just poof
- Although it has alot of base health, it's not the strongest against fractures and bleed, although it can counter both dinos that use these tools pretty well, it isn't immune to them. ESPECIALLY the fractures. since pachy can knock you down with a full charged ram
- Fall damage hits hard on dilo ngl, it's not THAT bad it's about on par with cera for fall height
- Goofy Ahh Diets

.'. Boar - Easy kill

.'. Crab - Doo doo doo. dudu doo doo

.'. Pachycephalosaurus - Fighting these can go two ways, easy fight, or pretty rough fight. we'll go over it in strats but uh... watch the fractures, if your pachy prey tries to facetank, go right ahead you can facetank it. if the pachy gains distance on you after each stun so it can KEEP stunning you? yeah it's bouta be rough

S Hypsilophodon - Guh?!? Yeah i'm sure this'll feed the dilo so well

S Deer - Easy meal

S Chicken - If i had a nickel for every bird like animal on dilos diet, i'd have two nickels!

S Frog - Fremg

// Gallimimus - You can't just straight run them down, but if you can ambush one and get him envenomed your chances of catching them are FAR easier. especially when those hallucinations kick in

// Stegosaurus - Oh boy, what a jump in prey size, well first thing's first, you need that venom. it might take a few bites, if your stego uses alot of swings and falls for easy baits, This shouldn't be a problem. Once venom kicks in make sure to use those hallucinations to further waste a stegos stamina and land hits yourself

// Goat - Bleeeehhhhehehhhh

// Turtle - Hmmm yes this makes sense

// Dryo - More agile than you are, but more catchable than the gallis, with less food gain. Ambushing one of these might get it done in two bites

Misc - He-He-Heeee
- Dilo venom does not affect other dilos
- Rough swim speed, the ceratosuchus gonna get yo ass
- THE FOG IS COMING, THE FOG IS COMING
- The call is surprisingly hard to locate, the weird tones and waving makes it hard to locate what direction the call even originates from (At Least For Me)
- When a target is envenomed, running around makes your dilo spread their arms and lower their head

Stats - Base bite damage is 85, an alt bite deals only 95 damage and consumes 2% stamina. The hallucinations deal 85 damage when they land, same as your bite damage. Speaking of those hallucinations, lets explain them now.
- In the first stage your prey is seeing plenty of foggy stuff, the range and density of this fog seems to vary, a stego just starting out in this stage may see farther than a pachy in the first bite. after a few bites the stego will be in the same position. targets scented in first stage appear a blue color.
- In the final stage your prey will be a purple color, and the fun part begins. hallucinations will appear on their own, at about a rate of 1 every... eh 20-ish seconds. you have the ability to summon your own ghosts by right clicking. this make you do a little funny laugh which summons a ghost for your envenomed prey. If the prey hits the ghost before it becomes "active" the ghost will dissappear having not done any damage. Manual ghosts take 10 seconds to recharge, PER charge, so if you use all your charges, tthey gonna regen one by one.
(need to research juvi dilos affects on hallucinations,)

Stamina - Well, normally this is where stam goes but uh... dilo doesn't use it for much but running tbh. so lets cover that aspect of dilo.
Starting off strong dilo has a run time of 2:35 for a respectable 2 Kilometer distance ran with a regen time of 3:10 (Sitting) And 7 minutes (Standing)

Carbs Diet - 3:25 run time for an impressive 2.75 Kilometers.

Growth Times - Pending research
Sanctuary ends at around 50% and bees start stinging basically the moment you hit 50%

Starvation/Dehydration - 45 Minutes dehydration, 1 hour to starvation

Scent Range - 150 Meters walking, 375 Stationary

Strats - Lets start simple, dilo is quite a strong playable atm, it's not the most agile. but it's pretty darn good. your speed makes any unfavorable matchup pretty easy to run away from. Landing the hallucination is key for you playing dilo, not even final stage, just ANY venom stage. as the minmized visibility your prey will have is a great boost on your ability to murder them.
- small carnivores shouldn't be too big a concern, if necessary mud is a pretty valid option or even giving them a hallucination and dipping.
-you should always prioritize the ambush on your prey, it makes your life MUCH easier. once your prey IS envenomated don't be afraid to dive in for attacks, the difference from hallucination and real can be a tad hard to tell.
- now on to the hallucinations themselves. You get basically two options from what i've seen, ghost conserving and using them in a way to land your own hits and make them waste their heavy stamina attacks, how conservative do you have to be? not too much, so long as keep the 10 second recharge in mind. The other fun method is just full ghost onslaughts, spam ghosts. let them fully recharge, SPAM GHOSTS AGAIN. this method (especially with bigger packs of dilos) can prove to be pretty deadly. Assuming your prey doesn't use water or mud. which if they do, your hunt is probably over. you can of course try the truly great strategy of "act like you left and stalk them until they leave the safezone they found" which might work.
- Another thing to note is your agility, you aren't the most agile thing but it isn't terrible, so remember your alt bite is an option on dinos like omni and pachy. omni especially it's important to get them envenomed in order to stop their main strategy of bleeding you out. as they'll be havin quite the trip to try and monitor your bleeding status.
- Dilo is pretty strong against its main prey. however against certain dinos of a larger size, such as carno and cerato. you'll def need group mates so they don't just follow your every move and easily take you out if you try anything. in general, groups of these big guys are much more efficient than solo. although solo is plenty viable for dilo

Nesting - Requires further research

Diet - Stam diet is the best here, running longer for this predator is absolutely key. of course perfect diet is always the best for growing and such.

Pros - He climb, he climb tree, he climb fence, he climb mountain
- Easy to use attack that's pretty strong for its size
- pretty fast bite speed to complement its drop pouncing shenanigans
- for being an arboreal climber, it's pretty speedy on the ground
- Has incredible traversability due to its climbing ability

Cons - An absolute PAIN to grow, juvi is slow as balls on the ground and fragile at that stage
- Has some goofy ah diets, but not as bad as dilo does
- although herrera IS pretty fun, it's hunting ability is reserved for smaller dinos, stuff like omni can pin it, galli and pachy easily stun it. it can be pretty rough fighting things

.'. Crab - money! money!

.'. Tenontosaurus - gl hunting an adult one of these but any juvi is on the table

.'. Boar - Drop kick them to death

S Bullfrog -el fremg

S Deer - Easy to hunt, good meal

S Hypsilophodon - 1 shot even for biting it, not as good of a meal

S Chicken - If i had a nickel for every birdlike- yeah yeah already did that joke with dilo

// Dryosaurus - What a mischevious little man, so how DO you hunt these lil guys? well it's as simple as FREEEEEEEE BIIIIIIIIIRRRRRRRRDDDDDD YEAH

// Pteranodon - Huh... Herrera has THREE Bird-like animals on it's diet... i get 3 nickels!

// Beipi - best to ambush these with the drop pounce, pretty rough fight trying anything on the ground due to their high damage high bleed alt attack

// Goat - easiest kill, and decent food too

// Seaturtle - turmble

// Gallimimus - Gl killing an adult one of these tbh... their alt kick will send you flying, and they only need a good 3 of them to take you out. max damage drop pounce is crucial, then you can get maybe 2-3 bites in and try and fight it on the ground.

Misc - Holding F and LMB makes him pop out his lil dewlap thingy and it glows! pretty cool ngl
- herrera is able to fish, AND dive underwater. although his swimming stam isn't the best
- he also can dive, yipeeeee
- You can sit in the trees, and you even get a different animation depending on the thickness of the branch you're sitting on, AND you can sleep

Stats - Bite dishes 30 damage and the alt attack does 50, the drop pounce at max damage that DOESN'T shatter your legs deals 225. and the MAX damage you can do while shattering your legs is 325 damage (Pretty good ngl)

Stam stats, Alt bite 2% stamina, initiating a jump is dependent on the angle you jump at, dropping straight down off a tree is maybe 3% stam or less. the most common jumps are around 6% stamina (your decently ranged ambushes) and trying to jump straight the in the air (off a tree) may eat 15% stamina OR MORE. climbing slowly will barely use any stam, and if you have no stam this will be all you can do, sprint climbing uses more stamina, similar to sprinting on the ground. Jumping (on the ground) uses around 6% stamina
- Run time of 2 minutes for 1.5 kilometer run distance. 2:55 regen time (sitting) 5 minutes (standing)

Carb Diet - 2:40 run time for 2 kilometer run distance, solid stuff

Growth Times - Further research
Sanctuaries end at 41% and bees begin stinging as soon as you hit 41%

Dehydration/Starvation/oxygen 45 Minutes to starvation, 30 minutes to dehydration, and only a pitiful 25 second oxy timer while diving

Scent Range - Further research needed

Strats - Further research needed

Nesting - Further research needed

Diets - Perfect diet (if you can get it) for growing, scavenging works pretty well. and then the best diet is either full S or full Stam. However if you felt so inclined fracture regen could be a good pick if you like doing the high 325 damage pounces at the cost of your legs, high risk high reward. the full S would also help with this playstyle as well. and stam diet is always great for running more and climbing and all that fun stuff.

Pros - It can fly, do i need to explain why this is a pro?
- Can be decently maneuverable on the ground, with a decently fast takeoff speed
- has access to a food source no other dino does, being able to fish schooling fish with ease
- can go just about anywhere they want to, cliffside? they can fly there. Treetop? They can chill there too, Unscalable mountain? just a flight away
- with enough combat skill these fighter planes can be a good juvi scourge, plus its free organs
- Nice and quick growth time
- If you crash midflight, you can catch yourself most of the time, so no big deal
- Actually has good diets now, you can even hunt adult small tiers like troodon and beipi for diet

Cons - crumples easily to most any hit, even a dryo could box you to death
- Mud's kinda bud, you can't takeoff in mud so its a vulnerability, and rather unneeded
- Fresh tenontos and pachys can stun you, and utahs at about 20% can pin you with a pounce

.'. Crab - Its says ubiquitous but i can only find them along the coast.

.'. Schooling Fish - There's so many variations of these little fish, tropical and bland, long or stubby, armored or squishy. good meal for pteras and occassionally juvi dinos, not much else. you can identify where to fish for schooling fish by these ripples ontop of drinkable water

Tropical Fish - Schooling fish variety marked by vibrant blue and orange colors, quite dazzling. resembles the real fish known as the longear sunfish

Guppy Fish - Fish resembelling a small guppy, smallest of the schooling fish, also pretty tasty

Pike - Legit a pike, i don't know why its a schooling fish as pike are solitary hunters if memory servers correctly. But, They do be tasty

Armored Fish - Kinda armored looking, dark colorations. A variation of schooling fish. Looks very familiar... Holup, is that a Pleco?

S Chicken - What can i say, its a chicken
S Bullfrog - Pretty cool dudes, tasty for pteras, common around the swamp and whats left of oasis, but they spawn at most water sources except coast

S Rabbit - Hunt these like you'd hunt chickens, They're easy to spot from the sky, and easy to kill from the sky

S Troodon - Pretty good meal if you can hunt them, they may be able to jump and pounce you as you dive over for pecks, if they're in a horde DO NOT try and attack, especially on the ground, you will get mobbed by the rats

S Hypsi - Hypsi got changed BACK to the S Diet, AFTER IT WAS CHANGED FROM S TO // ,devs can't make up their minds where they want hypsi to be on diet fr

// Sea Turtle - Since juvis can't get diet from all corpses, only organs and diet bodies, the sea turtle is absolutely useless for every dino except ptera
// Beipiaosaurus - Do not hunt on the ground, you will be shredded. hunting these is very dangerous as their alt attack will easily oneshot you. trying to hunt them from the sky is the safest course of action, if they are in water they may dive to avoid you, or even jump up from the water to try and knock you into the water or hit you

// Goat Odd thing to have on pteras diet but sure, just hunt them from the sky or even chase them on ground

// Pterodactylus - Finally a use for these flying AI besides being a juvi murderer, might be fun to engage them in aerial combat

Migration zones - Basically anywhere, even if you HAVE migration zones because of the ability of flight and the expansive diet ptera has you don't have to abide by them at all

Misc - Good beginner carnivore that helps get a good perspective of the map, they have a pretty speedy growth time as well
- One of the few dinos that doesn't really have natural predators, if you play skittish enough not much can actually touch you other than your own kind
- Like hypsi it can live where it pleases, although to a lesser degree as the stamina regen you'd get from schooling fish is pretty useful, but as long as your in flying range of a decent river you should be perfectly fine
- Ptera can cling to surfaces, flatter surfaces are much easier to cling too although you can even cling to the palm trees if you get good enough with the cling, you cannot regen stamina while clinging so its only really good for screenshots or if you need a spot to chill without the chance of a sneaky utah hopping up to wherever your at to bite ya.
- Holding shift makes you go FAST, Airbrake make you go SLOW, but for THE LOVE OF GOD, Don't hold the air brake really high up and let go, for some reason the airbrake after being held for a little while, stops flight completely the moment you let go of the key, so you start free falling, which, ptera cannot handle large heights, at least not the heights you will be soaring at
- Excellent juvi hunter, get those sweet sweet O R G A N S
- Can't handle falls real well, I know. Shocker Innit?
- Can pick up some heavy stuff and fly with it, idk the max weight but stuff up to hypsi size seems like you can grab and fly with it
- Alt peck is SLIGHTLY stronger than a normal peck so make sure to use it when your on the ground hunting something like a hypsi or juvi utah, alt peck doesn't work in the air though
- Dinos can jump. If they jump and collide with you, there's no saving you
-Ptera can jump quite high, how is this useful? not a damn clue
- Will never starve unless your dumb with the thing
- pack limit is 6 members

The Stats - Since biteforce is obvious in the character menu, and bleed isn't a factor on ptera, this will only have the stamina costs for jumping and taking off
- Flying upward, increasing you speed with shift or holding w increases your stamina consumption the same way sprinting does, a simple jump costs 6% of your stamina, a normal takeoff is 8% of your stamina, The Running takeoff of course has its base sprinting cost but also a 10% cost for the actual successful takeoff. alt bite takes 2% stamina
- Also, alt bite does 10 extra damage, coming out to be 30 damage over the 20 damage peck

Growth Time: Perfect diet 45 minutes, 30% growth is 50 minutes, 1 Diet is 1 Hour
Sanctuaries don't even exist for ptera, bees won't even sting you regardless of age

Starvation/Dehydration - 30 minutes to dehydration, 45 minutes to starvation

(Note, Steam Has A text Limit For Guides, Dumb As ♥♥♥♥ Ngl, Oh Well. Guess I'll Make Extended Parts That Are The Rest Of The Information)

Scent Range - Scent range while walking is... i can't even tell because the distance is so small, i wanna say around 50 Meters? Same scent range while flying.

Stamina stats - (Land) 475 meters of distance, 1 minute run time, Regen time (sitting) 4:15, and around 7 minutes (standing)

Carbs diet - 625 meters of distance, 1:20 run time,

Flight stats - All values are measured at sea level, so no altitude boosting the values. the first measurement is gaining altitude slowly and then allowing yourself to glide, The second being a sprinting altitude and allowing a slow glide
(Slow) High altitude glide: 4:25 flight time with a distance of around 3500 (49 Kph)
(Fast) High altitude glide: 8 Minute flight time, with a distance of around 7 Kilometers (49 Kph)
The second set of measurements are more or less the same as the first, however SOME stamina is reserved to go to max glide speed
(Slow) High altitude fast glide: 3 Minute flight time, with a distance of around 3500 (70 kph)
(Fast) High altitude, fast glide: 5:30 flight time, with a distance of around 6,250 meters (70 kph)
This set of info assumes a low altitude glide, basically maintaining altitude over time tapping the spacebar anytime the ptera gets TOO close to the ocean, the two measurements being a fast as possible sprint, and the slower glide.
low altitude sprint glide: 30 second sprint time, 1 kilometer distance (120 Kph)
low altitude, slow glide: A absolutely MASSIVE 16 minute flight time, with a distance of 13 kilometers (49 Kph)
Summary - So what does all this information mean? well, it shows us what different kinds of flight do, and which is most efficient. if your intention is speed alone, you hold the sprint key and go for a low altitude sprint glide. as it is the FASTEST method, if you're looking for a balance of speed and distance, you take the route of either a slow ascending, high altitude glide, OR a slow ascending, high altitude, sprint glide. the fast ascending, high altitude glide is mainly good for people who may not know the map as well and need an aerial view, and is good enough for distance. the BEST flight method being to stay at low altitude, more or less under the tree canopy in height, and slowly gliding around to get the max distance, this is great for activites like skimming, hunting, or just exploring. now as mentioned before NONE of these values take the altitude you take off at into account, the takeoff point is ALWAYS sea level in these tests, these tests are also rough numbers that show trends, which is what we mainly want. in order to figure out what flight methods are best for which situations. So flight times may differ by a few seconds, or distances by a couple hundred meters. but it SHOULD be close to the numbers provided.(Carbs diet has no difference in flight times.)

The Strats - Ptera being quite maneuverable while flying, you can pull some nifty stunts. They can dodge, dip, dive, duck and dodge
- Your main things to fight will be all the juvi dinos, and some select small tiers at the upper tier of prey if your prey is especially dumb and doesn't know the jump key exists i'm sure you could slowly kill em, although death is likely
- Hunt small dinos like hypsi and juvi utahs by land, its easier than trying to land hits by air
- Alot of ptera combat is centered around timing, and tracking. Time your pecks effectively for a hit, locational damage does apply so depending what your hunting you'll most likely hit their head or body, if your prey can jump bait out jumps and peck as they jump, so pull up to where you can peck em at about their jump height
- if your prey escapes and is not underwater, try tracking the same way any other canivore can. find the prints, lock on, follow them. You may have to fly at lower altitudes to track right
- Fresh spawn pachys can fracture you, fresh carnos and tenos can stun you, try to avoid ground combat if you can, try to secure your kill by air
- The upper echelon of prey being troodons, beipis and dryos are very deadly, for troodons and dryos i recommend facing these from air, but exerting extreme caution when doing so, as troodon will pin you with its pounce. beipi is a whole other story, with large bleed damage and the ability to dive, facing an adult is next to impossible, but the 50% ones you can easily land fast, and maul with 1 or 2 alt pecks
- If you find a ptera cannibal, which is SUPER rare, its mainly luck who wins since both of you are moving so damn fast its hard to time a hit, i recommend diving into tree cover if your skilled enough to fly through it
- Everything else is your preference of course, one does not HAVE to fight as ptera, quite a easy life
-Scavenging is Super easy, find bodies by sky, check em for organs

Nesting - Nesting on ptera is surprisingly easy, it does require sticks but those are super easy to get, you'll build your nest preferably high up, it can be just about anywhere, getting diets for your children should be easy enough at least two should be good, pteras lay in clutches of 4 eggs, in terms of the parenting itself, its often super easy because of how fast the pteras grow and how low management they are, if you nested somewhere nice and safe you don't even really have to watch them, just keep em fed, be aware though, Hatchling pteras CANNOT FLY, so don't let them fly and make sure to tell any new ptera hatchlings this fact as well, i have had many a baby dive to their doom because they thought they could fly. Babies eat solid food a little after 21%

Diet - Idk really, probably something like bleed resist in all honesty, stam diet doesn't affect flying or regen, scent does nothing, pteras health regen is already great, most i can think is using the bleed resist diets

Pros - Very nimble, for its size i was expecting a slower speed but its actually pretty quick
- the venom pounce is surprisingly strong, in large packs it can rack up quick
- excellent stamina regen, especially when coupled with stamina diet
- pounce puts them in positions to effectively attack without being able to get attacked back. although you CAN be caught mid pounce
- small size makes them incredibly hard to hit, and hard to spot

Cons - Made of glass, similar to hypsi but not as noticeable, unlike beipi it has to deal with its stronger terrestrial opponents much more frequently, Almost all of which can oneshot you. remain vigilant
- Although it can benefit from some environmental situations, a lot of the time its the environment being used against you, the shallowest of water may force you to back off, mud is most likely doom. you can be rubbed off on trees and rocks. Only difference between your pounce and utahs is that utah can hop off when it wants, you have to inject your venom first
- pitiful biteforce, only the pounce really helps in a hunt.

.'. Boar - You can hunt these alone, they may catch you midpounce though. in a group it should be relatively easy to take one down

.'. Pachycephalosaurus - Alone these can be somewhat challenging, if theres a group of them i would not reccomend. their alt attack costs no stamina and their charge will oneshot you ez. try and bait attacks that give a cooldown to land pounces

.'. Tenontosaurus - Ah. A Worthy Opponent. Our Battle Will Be Legendary!

S Chicken - Good juvi food, good food if your solo too, these are pretty easy to hunt

S Rabbit - Little faster than the chicken, still pretty easy to catch

S Compsognathus - I'd love to see a juvi troodon battle a compy. that'd be hilarious

S Hypsilophodon - Pounce it, simple as that. sneak up on it nice and sneakylike. then hit it with the pounce, maybe even a headshot bite. they're slowly but also harder to hit so a ambush when your unlikely to miss is best

S Utahraptor - If alone this should be a good hunt, of course you may get hit as you pounce onto them but you MAY live. if theres a pack of utahs i do not recommend a large pack fight

// Goat - Ridiculously easy to hunt, they can't even fight back against you

// Dryosaurus - Barely faster than you, i recommend an ambush in order to get them bleeding to be easier to track. you can't facetank them but a good 3 pounces should take the dryo out

// Pteranodon - I THINK you can pin these by pouncing them, but idk if it would kill them, if they try to swoop over you maybe jump up and either knock them down or pounce them from the sky.

Misc - Holding right click as you pounce will allow you to hold on to whatever your pouncing will allow you to stay latched. you don't do any damage doing this or anything you just kinda ride the pounced. Make A Troodon Bus.
- OOOOOOOOOWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
- Ooooo Pretty Colors
- Pounce just like utahs new pounce does not cause you to be stunned
- Sniffing lights up a dino that is envenomed, the color telling you what stage of venom they are in, a bright green color signifies 1st stage, a purple color signifies 2nd, and a DEEP purple color with the prey shaking like an earthquake means 3rd stage envenomation.
- Pack limit of 10 members
- Venom can be applied after 65% growth

Combat Stats - Bite is a measly 15 damage and alt bite does not change the damage. now onto the juicy stuff. the first pounce deals 25 damage plus around 10 damage overtime, You have around 25 seconds to land another pounce to start stage 2.One call later and you can apply the second stage, which does the same damage and overtime damage. It also buys you another 25 seconds to land the stage 3 pounce. and after another small call stage 3 can be applied. at which 50 damage will be dished out. This does very little overtime damage and your prey is now official in stage 3. Any pounce done after the final call will do 75 damage with no overtime damage. How it seems you rack up time is pouncing adds about 25-ish seconds, up to a cap of around 45. What do i mean? if you have 20 seconds left, pouncing again adds 25 seconds, but if you're at 30 seconds left, pouncing won't go very high above the 45 second limit only adding about 15 seconds.

- Jump costs about 5% stamina, and pounces take 5% stamina As well. both missed and landed. bucking will drain your stamina but because you hop off so fast it will barely take anything, maybe 5%?

Stamina stats - 1,900 Meters distance traversed, 2:30 run time, Regen time 2:50 (sitting) 7 minutes (standing)

Carbs diet - 2.4 Kilometers dtsance travelled , 3:15 Run time.

Growth time: Perfect diet: 27 minutes and 30 seconds,but the time it takes you to get those diets probably goes up to 30 minutes, the reason for being so specific is that troodon growth is so quick the diets barely affect it, on 30% growth it takes 30 minutes, and on one diet it only takes around 40 minutes
- Sanctuaries cutoff at 73% growth, although bees will not sting you at all, even at full adult

Starvation/Dehydration - dehydration starts after 30 minutes, starvation begins after 45 minutes

Scent Range - Scent range while moving is around 200 meters,

Diet - (placing diet and nesting before strats, since i'm sure you've seen how long utahs thing is. and this small pack hunter has plenty of intricacies that need to be covered) Just go for stamina diet. at least two diets with three slots filled should grow you quick. but a stamina reliant boi such as troodon benefits quite a bit from the stamina diet. its health regen is pretty good and so is its stam regen, but more stamina means more pounces means more damage output. whats not to love?

Nesting - Similar to hypsi except you can actually somewhat protect your nest, place it in hard to reach/spot places etc etc... Solo targets that stumble upon your nesting grounds can be killed. depending on what it is of course, i don't recommend fighting multiple targets but they should be relatively easy to lead away or attack into backing off. Nest is made of a mound nest with 5 eggs. babies eat solid food after 29%

Solo Strats - Same deal as omni, where pack hunting and improving upon yourself are two seperate things. so lets get right into it
- Solo Strats - these strats will be used to improve upon your own gameplay, not necessarily the groups, the bite is next to useless i would not recommend using it on large targets at all
- make sure to use juking, alot. Troodon is incredibly agile and has some good speed to boot, but that won't mean anything if your dead. troodon is especially susceptible to getting hit mid pounce so make sure to make your pounces unpredictable, often by acting like your going to pounce only to have a team member do it for you, don't be afraid to play a risky pounce though, often your prey may adapt mid-fight and start to ignore your baits if they find you aren't aggressive enough, this also applies to the whole pack, your prey may start to realise your pack heavily relies on jukes and so become less responsive to them
- Know how to pick targets, as troodon you thrive on picking off the weak, the young, and the lonely. solo targets are easiest to dispatch and juvis and injured dinos especially and if you spot a dino in a particularly tough spot to kill, like a wallowing pit or in shallow water, do not attempt to fight it, try and leave the location out of sight and wait for them to leave, a good distance from whatever was keeping them safe so they don't just go back in
- Set up good ambush points, while yes you can reasonably frolic around in center and you should be fine, carnos can still be a threat. if your going into the open expanse keep a low profile, your size makes you harder to spot amongst the grass assuming your not the same colors as ronald mcdonald.
- HOLD pounce, you can of course just tap for the same effect but that makes when you hop off predictable, a good strat is to hold rmb to stay latched and then randomly detatch, it may waste more stamina but it isn't as predictable and easy to hit

Group Strats - Strategies for coordinated packs to use, starting with actually coordinate get in like a vc or something, the ingame chat is a horrible way to coordinate ngl, it absolutely sucks to try and hunt without it, and you may lose troodons after each hunt because of a lack of coordination. thankfully the ingame calls system after pounces makes it much easier to coordinate pounces
- Lets talk about opening strategies, unlike its larger pack hunting counterpart the troodon thrives on moderation, your first pounce should always be one thats unnoticed, do not reveal your true numbers until well into stage three, only have a few troodons out to downplay the threat of your pack. you should not be making yourselves incredibly well known by the second pounce. or the third preferably. its around the third pounce that you may become active. since the humble troodon has nothing to gain from going one by one. once you hit stage 3 its full force. surround the opponent and swarm it, often by two's in order to not pounce eachother. always announce to your troodon brothers when you need stam, when your pouncing, etc. VC makes this easy to do
- You have no real avenue to help your teammates as utah can. oh well
- Troodon the little rat that it is doesn't need to much food at all, sustaining even larger packs than utah which it benefits from greatly
- Make sure to use the lockon tracking, the pounce causes bleed and therefore makes your prey very trackable, prey that is envenomed glows like a hologram when smelling so its easy to spot them if you lose them. the color of the dino will range based on the stage of envenomation

Pros - Very nimble with a good amount of stam and decently good regen with it
- Able to take advantage of a mechanic most other dinos can't (yet) Bleed
- Using your pounce ability you can stack bleed onto an opponent and some damage, while being unable to get hit by an attack, there is a chance they can hit you as you hop off the pounce but otherwise you'll be unhittable while pouncing
- Can pin and easily bleed out smaller dinos with the pounce, anything smaller or as large as a utah should be within your range
- A high jump height allows them the mobility to hide on rocks and high spots from predators like carno
- Their alt bite is relatively quick, and allows better use of the hit and run strategy utah excels at
- They have a good and quick growth time, Utahs are decently common so finding friends isn't hard
- Pounce no longer stuns if you miss, and can therefore be used without as much risk. but equal reward

Cons: Kinda fragile, a teno will kill you if it lands a stun, same with carno, really built for the hit and run playstyle while pack hunting
- Its got a pretty big head, since its head is most likely the first thing you'll hit on a utah, its not the best thing to have
- Doesn't deal too well with heights above its own jump height and fractures can take a decent amount of time to heal off if you get one
- Quite weak in its earlier stages, getting done in by about anything when its small

.'. Demon - Already explained why i hate these ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥, kill as many as you can

.'. Tenontosaurus - Quite a tough prey item, can be quite a tough dino to fight even with skilled buddies, beware their back end and front claws

.'. Crackhead - This ain't your legacy pachy, these ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ got renewed to kick a utahs ass, susceptible to pounces but can dish out fractures and stuns real quick, although a stun isn't a game over necessarily. They thrive on the defensive but one might catch you slackin and go on the offense as most pachy's are very aggressive, basically a Utah's nemesis

.'. Ceratosaurus - Very rough fight, if they land a headshot with their charged bite you WILL die, also their chuffing ability, depending on the size of the body gives them damage and bleed resistance so they'll shrug off even more damage if they're contesting you for a body or if your contesting them for one. their bacterial bite will rack up on you quick, especially if you survive a charged bite, at least it doesn't apply on tail shots. if theres multiple you should back down, even in a big pack

S Deinosuchus - Has been re-added to the utahraptors diet, why? idk. you can hunt the juvis deinos again i guess. but uhh... gl killing an adult semiaquatic 8 ton oneshotting crocodile that has MASSIVE bleed resist

S Carnotaurus - Quite dangerous in the hands of someone who can play it, They have a terrible stamina pool you can abuse but otherwise they outclass you in every way except agility, Being faster, stronger, and tankier. You can use a good amount of bleed to take them down but it takes a good few utahs to take a carno down solo, always hungry and will see you as easy prey. Oftentimes it will be the carno finding you as carnos are ambush predators, well, supposed to be

S Troodon Easy to hunt if your solo, in bigger groups they may be harder to hunt if your solo though, if you've got a big pack shouldn't be too big a issue to hunt these. especially if you pounce one

S Rabbit - Very flighty animal, surprisingly nimble as well, if not caught after a certain amount of time they can burrow and disappear. Should be killed in one bite if your adult

// Stegosaurus - VERY DANGEROUSOne of these bad boys can oneshot you 3 times over at full adult, the Subs hit hard enough to kill you as well. Most stegos can be baited into wasting their stamina but they have very far range with tail swings so be carefull, some stegos are almost untouchable and will not take the bait. Main tool to take these down will be pouncing and bleeding, although bleeding one out can take more than a good 20 minutes, its still better than trying to take down 6k health.

// Dryosaurus - Your slightly faster than a dryosaurus, but they're FAR more agile, and can take at least 2 bites assuming you get body shots, get a pounce on one and its most likely dead, These flighty animals are very uncommon, if you see one, its probably not a dumb one

// Gallimimus - Fast and very agile, best way to get these is with a quick pounce and they should bleed out, just watch for any friends they may have, and be carefull of their kicks

// Deer - Decently fast, easy to kill, you can always tell when one is near by their obnoxious call

Poisonous Food :Not really much yet, just don't be a cannibal and you should be perfectly fine

Misc - Pounce won't hit right if your too far, it works pretty good close up but the smaller the target you're pouncing the more accurate you have to be, You'll lose stamina at a somewhat moderate pace, if the pounced dino starts bucking though, the stamina will deplete is seconds, so make sure to hop off when they start bucking. If you run out of stam while pouncing you fall off and either die or get very injured from the dino you were pouncing, if you do live you'll have a small amount of stamina to run away with
- Some dinos can rub you off a pounce by running alongside a tree or rock while your pouncing them, this mechanic is the main way to get you off, as bucking barely does anything to make a utah ♥♥♥♥ off
- Utah bork moment
-Suffers from the cannibalism debuff, i mean duh its a pack hunter, killing other utahs is pretty useless anyways
- Some dinos get pinned by a pounce, disabling all movement, these dinos are at utahs weight and smaller, just about every dino will die from one full stamina bar pin pounce, although utah will survive health wise, they will die from the bleed if they don't get to mud to stop the bleeding
- Ackshually its omniraptor- I Do Not Care, Its Utahraptor Until We Get A Playable Called Utahraptor And Omniraptor. I Don't Mind If You Call It Omni, But I'm Calling It Utah
- Pack limit of 8 members

Stats - Damage: base bite damage : 65, Alt bite damage : 75, deflected pounce: also 75, Pounce full stamina bar, (without buck) Does a WHOPPING 900 Damage, And lasts 45 Seconds, so it has a DPS of 20 Pouncing (with bucking) Does around 350 Damage, lasting around 17 seconds, About half the value of normal pounce, depends when they start bucking. Smaller dinos like pachy and dilo will buck you off MUCH faster, so you apply less damage, Your prey uses around 20-30% of their own stamina on a full buck, assuming they don't rub you off. You can only land a pounce by pouncing their SIDES, so no front or back pouncing
If you have full stamina and pin something, you will easily kill it with damage alone. even half a stam bar of pinning will probably screw them over with bleed damage. busted.

- pounce is variable in its stamina usage but to initiate a pounce you use 5% of your stamina, Jumping uses 6% of your stamina, Alt bite uses 2% stamina.

Bleed Damage:Although we can't get a measurable value we can explain the mechanics of how it works, the longer you hold, the more bleed damage you incur. just tapping to hop on and off does basically nothing. For reference, A Unbucked full pounce will bleed out a carno in just ONE pounce, easily. Even with bucking they might, the bleed hits hard.

Stamina stats -Distance ran, 1750 meters ,2:15 run time, Time to regen 3 minutes (sitting) and 7 minutes (standing)

Carbs diet - 2.3 Kilometers, 3 Minutes

Growth time: Perfect diet, 1 hour. 30% growth, 1 hour 10 minutes, One diet, 1 hour 25 minutes
Sanctuaries end at 44%, Bees begin stinging more or less instantly afterwards

Starvation/Dehydration - 45 Minutes for starvation AND dehydration

Scent Range - 200 Meters while moving, 400 Meters while stationary

Strats - Utahraptor is a very effective pack hunter, Keyword PACK Hunter, if your hunting as utah your going to need actual coordination, not mob mentality, many people confuse having multiple utahs for a "pack" when each utah is functioning on mob mentality, not pack mentality. "whats the difference?" you may ask, well. One relies on numbers and has no real strategy, this is what most random utahs grouped up on servers become, each utah is out for himself in the group and they have no actual strategy other than pounce the prey, maybe bite it and juke it. A PACK Mentality actually has a pack strategy, such as timing pounces to drain the most stamina possible on bucking, moving as a group to get the best ambush potential, communicating with each other so everyone knows who is going for a pounce so people don't just rush in and hit each other. The most effective utah packs often use some kind of Mic based chat to communicate quickly over the ingame chat, which i very much so recommend. so we'll list some strats for both solo gameplay to improve on yourself, and some pack strategies people can use, as a solo player. I may be missing things, if your a godly utah player be sure to add some things in the comments i can use

Solo Strats - these strats will be used to improve upon your own gameplay, not necessarily the groups, when it comes to biting def use the alt bite when facing opponents where it can make a difference, think like pachy, extra damage for the target, whereas on carno, you may not use alt bite at all, maybe not even bite
- If your facing smaller targets, pounces are good but often can be missed, either wait for your smaller targets to use attacks that may leave them vulnerable before initiating a pounce, such as pachy using their ram attack and missing, or use your alt bite to dispatch targets like this.
- make sure to use juking, alot. Utah is a very agile dino and juking dinos out can drain very stamina heavy attacks, however make sure your juking doesn't get you in range of lethal attacks or become predictable, constantly mix up your jukes and hit and run attacks as your opponent may adapt mid-fight
- When pouncing, make sure to prioritize where your looking, you jump off the dino in the direction you looking so if you wanna make some distance flip your camera so your looking behind yourself to jump off for extra distance
- Know how to pick targets, if your playing utah don't lock on to the pachy, lock on to the dryo with the pachy, this can get more complicated as you get groups but in general go for Solo players, they are much easier to take on than multiple targets, whether that is multiple pachy's and teno's or fighting one carno. and if you spot a dino in a particularly tough spot to kill, like a wallowing pit or in shallow water, do not attempt to fight it, try and leave the location out of sight and wait for them to leave, a good distance from whatever was keeping them safe so they don't just go back in
- Be cautious in the open, utah works good in the open, but you aren't invincible. camping certain areas like alongside the paths people travel along, or the ravine at highlands make for pretty good spots to start a hunt.

Group Strats - Strategies for coordinated packs to use, starting with actually coordinate, get in like a vc or something, the ingame chat is a horrible way to coordinated ngl, it absolutely sucks to try and hunt without it, and you may lose utahs after each hunt because of a lack of coordination.
- Now there's a couple opening strategies you can use, The onslaught mob mentality of pouncing by twos, this strat basically is pure damage and bleed, and is a good opener if you fear your opponent may try to get to an environmental advantage. The second opener is going 1 by 1 on pounces to drain the MOST stamina possible on the target, this of course is really good if your target is out in the open, or is slow and large enough that getting to an environmental advantage takes longer. if your prey isn't TOO deadly, you can try and rack damage with the ones method by having your packmates come in to bite them WHILE they buck, they'll either get more damaged and keep bucking, or stop bucking to attack, which gives you MORE pounce time. for some targets you can afford to waste alot of your stamina, as they're slow fat ♥♥♥♥♥ anyways, such as stego. but carno you'll need to save some stam to dodge charges and such.
- Surround your targets, the camera only looks one way, especially note the direction a player is looking in by their head to tell whether they're looking at you or not, its not a 100% reliable method but its a good indicator as to who they're focusing on, especially if they're chasing a pack member, and its generally harder to focus on multiple targets surrounding you than multiple targets in a single direction
- Help your teammates, if you see a man get knocked down by a pachy don't just sit there, go in and maul the pachy while its distracted, pounce it even to either force it to buck, or take heavy bleed damage while it attacks the utah. when dinos stun utahs, they seem to lock onto that stunned utah, which ironically is a perfect time to go in and try to pounce to either force a buck and save your teammate, or get heavy bleed damage in
- Utahs are a very low management dino, a good 6 members should be able to kill most things other than large herds of multiple species or multiple carnos, Utahs don't eat much so they don't have as intense a limit as say, carno, although ten plus will go through plenty of food its not as extreme as 3 carnos
- Make sure to use the lockon tracking, bleed is very easy to smell so as long as you get a good amount you should be able to track prey easily, watch for an ambush though, your focusing on smelling but at the same time make sure you look around, the prey your tracking may be closer than you think, and pop out to try and get a easy hit

Nesting - Nesting as utah is very straightforward, surprisingly unlike most carnis, it nests in a mound and not with sticks, you have to sit on the eggs to keep them heated. start by building your nest, preferably somewhere safe, use your jumping ability to find somewhere high up maybe. Utahs lay six eggs in a clutch, protecting your nest will be an endeavor as you don't have brute strength to hold your ground, the best way to do so is two ways, if your in a pair and are also nesting its best to try and lure away bigger threats, unless your godly utahs i doubt you can take a big carno on with just one other utah, so instead have your mate not only be looking for food and occassionaly swapping with you but also watching for, and leading threats away, utahs grow relatively quick from the nest so once they hit about the juvi stage you can begin moving them around, if your in a bigger pack and nest, you can have a few utahs at the nest for protection if anything gets through while packmates stick around the area searching for things, in this case if a adult carno stumbles into the nesting area, you and your buds can probably hunt it down, or at least drive it off. babies eat solid food at 22%

Diet - Stamina regen, all the other diets are pretty ♥♥♥♥, you can go for good growth as your growing but the stamina decay one is just redundant since stam diet does everything it does and more, its better to get stamina regen to regen alot quicker during fights so you can get back into a pounce AND to pounce longer and run longer

Pros - Fastest dino in the game, what more is there to say?
-Freight train on steroids, has a fairly easy to use charge ability that may as well confirm a kill on pachy and smaller, with a fatal injury to tenos and similar sized prey
- Handles falls really well, almost 3 headheights above itself, about the same as pachy, leg day paid off well
- Carno, like most predators has a godly ability that (most) herbivores lack, they can choose their fights, 9/10 of the time you out speed or maneuver your prey, if you feel like your in a dangerous situation, run away. Most of your prey does have a way to combat you. assuming they know your there before you ambush
-You outclass many of the dinos smaller than you in everything but Agility and Stamina
- Quite a strong biteforce, A few solid meat shots on an unattentive Utah or Pachy in normally enough to kill it
- Decently tanky, you can take a good amount of damage before you drop
- Carno at full adult cannot be knocked down, only stunned
-God tier acceleration + it's charge ability = super ambush

Cons - horrible turn radius, only time you turn decently well is while walking or turning in place
- Inertia, it exists, When heavy object goes REALLY fast, heavy object does not want to stop moving really fast = lots of sliding
- Everything wants you dead, like everything. if your not an adult expect to have anyone and anything try to kill you
- carnos hunger can never be sated, often diet is secondary to keeping yourself fed
- Your bleed drops surprisingly quickly, really hits hard

.'. Pachycephalosaurus - Quite a meaty prey item, seem to prefer the southern areas and occasionally northeast, hunting these should be pretty easy, if your solo and theres many of them they may be able to break your legs to try and mob you. if you have a friend with you these are a relatively easy prey item

.'. Tenontosaurus - Truly a prized game for carno, one of the only things that can sate your unedning hunger for a while, is to you as pachy is to utah, the nemesis. You'll need an ambush to get a good foothold in the fight, or land charges midfight

.'. Boar - They Are Rage, Brutal, Without Mercy. But You, You Will Be Worse. Rip And Tear Until It Is Done

S Utahraptor - Rats, i refuse to cal it an omniraptor, They're pounce is no longer the tool it used to be, but its not useless so watch your bleed if your facing big packs or get pounced a bit, use your charges to knock em down a peg, packs of 4 should be killable, above that and you should be cautious

S Troodon - You can hunt these pretty easily, if they're in a big horde just go in like, shin high water to avoid them. they don't give much food though

// Dryosaurus - While yes, these dinos are as rare as unicorns, its the only other diet option for // other than, and while it isn't too important a dino, I'm sure you'll be hungry when you see one

// Deer - Bigger goat, eat it, no point in letting it live, unless you don't need the diet.

// Gallimimus - Just get the drop on them, chasing them is basically futile to even attempt if they know your coming, especially if they have mobilize call

Misc - Swimming drains your stamina bad, i wouldn't recommend doing it unless your crossing
- the turn radius on charge is a little better, you can nail a charge if you put some thought into it
- Can survive solo although its better with buds
- Not much can kill you assuming you run away from most fights, although there are a few matchups where your doomed no matter what you do, namely other carno's, Its an even playing field, and if you get hit with a charge your probably dead unless you can land your own charge to catch up or run away
- Smaller pachy's can occasionally fracture you, its weird idk
- Pack limit is 3 members

The Stats - 175 For a normal bites, 200 For a alt bite, an insta charge (any charge under 2.5 seconds) will do 250 damage and no knockdown, a full chare (any charge OVER 2.5 seconds) will do 300 damage + knockdown on teno and smaller but a stun on dinos at 2.6 tons or carno weight
- Charge startup costs 10% Stamina, and has an increased stamina drain compared to running
Alt bite takes 2% stamina. Charge has a cooldown lasting 20 seconds

Stamina stats - 1.7 Kilometers Distance ran, 1:50 runtime, Regen time 3:20 (sitting) 7 Minutes (standing)

Stam diet - 2.3 Kilometer distance. 2:30 runtime

Growth Times - Perfect diet - 2 hours, 30% growth takes 2 hours and 30 minutes, 5% growth takes around 3 hours and 5 minutes
Sanctuary ends at around 25%. Bees begin stinging at the same time

Dehydration/Starvation - Starvation sets in after 45 minutes, dehydration starts at 1 hour

Scent Range - 200 Meters while moving (starting to notice a pattern) 400 while stationary

The Strats - Aight listen, i'm not here to tell you what you should and shouldn't hunt... But.... Carno functions way better as a smaller game hunter, now when i say "small game" i mean dinos its size or smaller, your charge is designed for taking on dinos of that size range. Carno also has several traits typical of an ambush predator, High speed and low stamina, this is something seen in cheetahs, they have incredible speed but don't last long. your best suited to taking on prey using an ambush that can either secure a kill entirely or fatally wound it. use the alt bite when you land charges, it can be the hit you need to take out a charged target, especially alt biting to the side, its impressively fast.
- Hunting in the plains is not all that good compared to using the jungle and swamp to your advantage, not necessarily hunting IN the jungles or swamps, but bordering tree lines, sitting in dense foliage, often opposite of water or food sources, since things lock their camera when they drink or eat this can be a great ambush point to get a charge off unseen
- be mindfull and track your preys movements, they can try and juke you and most often may do so, but if you predict movements well enough you can land a good charge or bite off
- Utahs should be stalked until an opportunity arises, unless solo or in pairs, with bigger groups if your in deep jungle being a viable option to attack, although don't stand still or let your stam get low enough for utahs to catch up, this means try not to bleed either. this strategy also applies to Troodon, if you feel you have no way to run, get to shallow water or mud to dissuade smaller pack predators
- If there's multiple ceratos and one of you, back off. if you don't have over 75% hunger. back off. the cerato/carno fight has alot of factors, your hunger, presence of a body, bacteria the cerato has, and finally wether you land a charge. having the number advantage is always good, especially in carnos case. but the best thing to do if you want a cerato dead is land at least one charge and some bites. if your stamina gets below maybe half and you haven't landed a charge or caused major damage while staying in good condition yourself. run away. You CAN try and facetank the cerato and you will probably win the facetank but at a heavy damage cost, especially if the cerato landed a charge bite beforehand
- Pachy's is relatively easy to hunt, they CAN parry your charges and they will hurt a bit landing the fractures, but they can't really outright kill you
- Take advantage of that super acceleration to punish arrogant dinos and bowl them over with a charge, it is unlikely you can straight brawl a teno or chuff buffed cerato straight out but it IS possible certainly alot easier landing a good ambush first

Diet - Go for perfect diet or two diets as a baby, spawning around the south area can give you a broad range for the AI you need to catch if you want perfect diet, at adult go for full stamina diet, everything else is absolute trash, the stam diet gets you extra run time that carno THRIVES on, although S diet is good too i guess

Nesting - Carno nesting is very... Active, it requires a certain kind of placement and hunting style
to start up a nest you must get sticks and heat it with sticks, this means you and your mate will be active and not sitting at the nest, nesting in deep forest is not advisable surprisingly since these areas may not have the steady stream of food necessary for you and your children, so nesting in either A: a treeline or bridge between two hotspots where you can hide a nest while hunting Or B: Smackdab In the middle of a hotspot or common area, often in a bush. where you'll need to constantly patrol and hunt in, taking your children with you is not advisable until they reach a certain size, mainly a size where they either just about match your speed or outpace you, you'll probably be bringing them boar and other AI foods, although for the hatchling phase you'll need to keep a bigger eye on them, The moment they can keep up with you is a good idea to change location by then i'm sure you will have run through your AI and any dinos that were in the area. It'd be best to take them to a somewhat quieter place but somewhere prey is prevelant, when faced with a threat bigger than two carnos can take on, try to lure the threat away or ignore it until it goes away, something like a stego will probably piss off unless it finds the nest outright, so be sure to hide it properly. babies eat solid food after a little under 11% growth

Pros- Bacteria bite can rack up quick. and will easily stunlock your average dino after just a few bites
- for its size it has massive damage potential, a fully charged bite being the third highest current damage value a dino can dish out in one move. it also applies ALOT of bacteria
- Very fast bite speed. only helps apply its bacteria quicker
- Surprisingly adept in the water. you can even take on two carnos in water alone. sometimes... it even alt bites in the water
- CHUFF BUFF
- Eat anything and everything
- Stamina lasts a good while
- Impressive agility

Cons - Outside of its abilities of vomit locking and chuff buff its actually kinda fragile, its weight of 1300 puts it far below the other midtiers in terms of tanky sustainability, as good as the bacteria bite is, its really the only thing that makes it as strong as it is. hell one single landed charge and two-ish bites from a carno can take you down by more than half your heath. of course. the chuff buff helps the cerato circumvent this problem
- Stamina regen does suck a little, but its also not heavily stamina dependent.
- Cannibal, don't expect alot of kindness from your own kind

.'. Tenontosaurus - Can be threatening, especially when theres multiple. they're barely faster than you but they do give good food. exert caution fighting these

.'. Pachycephalosaurus - Oh How The Mighty Have Fallen.

.'. Ceratosaurus - If they're smaller than you, it should be quite easy to kill. however ones you size need a certain... finesse to be dealt with

S Carnotaurus - You'll meet these often, your bacterial bite will carry you greatly in this fight

S Deinosuchus - Surprisingly killable, due to your adeptness in the water the bigger deinos can actually be fought. however make sure not to be lunged. on land these are especially able to be killed. The sub ones that is...

S Utahraptor - These will mainly be fought in competitions for food. if you feel threatened by utahs the water or mud works pretty well to avoid them. hunting them is a chore but not impossible, oftentimes they'll be the ones hunting you

S Troodon - More or less the same as utah, its just smaller and dies in one hit.

// Deer - But... Why Deer? i mean its not as bad as giving deino a frog diet but like, deer is a strange choice, you'd think boar or something similar would be better, hell maybe even elite fish since its already good in water

// Dryosaurus - BUT WHY? Can't you put something else on here? why dryo?!?! make it like. idfk galli?

// Stegosaurus - Somewhat killable, if they place themselves in a defendable spot gl getting bacteria on them, plus depending on how many cerats you have hunting one given stego, you may not have enough bacteria to vomit lock it to death before you run out completely. the younger stegs are fair game

// Micheal - I mean, your good in water so i'm not surprised

Misc - Very loud, chuffing alone carries surprisingly far
- Can run while charging up its charged bite, it can't use it in water but it can use the charged bite very offensively
- Pack limit of 4 members
- Damage reduction while eating, is some of THE goofiest hitbox ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ i have EVER seen, therefore i will not even go indepth into it at all
- Cerato smell vomit

Stats - Normal bite 150 plus some bleed, alt bite 200 plus some bleed. bacteria applied is 20% with these bites, so 5 normal or alt bites to make a creature vomit at full hunger. Fully charged bites do a whopping 350 Damage. the charge to get full damage is around 4-ish seconds. the bacteria applied is double the normal bite. being around 40% bacteria. so about 3 fully charged bites should easily add vomit on a full hunger dino. cerato cannot chain vomit and has to wait out a cooldown of 25 seconds before it's prey can vomit again. the vomit sickness applies a few effects, while you vomit you cannot run or attack until your done vomiting, interestingly enough a VERY well timed alt bite will circumvent this, but it's a reaction that takes under a second. the vomit sickness disable the ability to gain diets, and if the prey eats or drinks there is a chance they vomit again. tail bites do not apply bacteria, on carno this can be all the way up to the base of the tail and it won't apply bacteria.
- Lastly the chuff buff. depending on the size of the body the "chuff buff" adds damage resistance while chuffing. the size influencing how much damage resist is added. Any body weighing over 300 kilos gives a 50% damage reduction anything under is only 25%. If the body is dragged or picked up the buff won't apply. The chuff buff also resists bleed and venom. In terms of distance you can't go very far, but don't worry that you don't have the buff even if you're making the sound, crouched or not. you still gain the buff. The range for the buff isn't very far, normally only about 25 meters, giving you room to dodge carno charges and such but not much else.

Stamina stats 1.1 Kilometers travelled, 1:35 Run Time. 3:15 Regen time (sitting) 7 minutes (standing) [Is it obvious that standing has the same regen time among every playable?]

Carbs diet: 2:10 run time, 1.5 Kilometers travelled, better than nothin

Growth times: Perfect diet: 1 hour 45 Minutes, 30% growth: 1 Hour 55 Minutes, 1 diet: 2 hours 20 minutes
Sanctuary kicks you out at 34%, Bees begin stinging basically right off the bat.

Dehydration/Starvation - starvation starts at 50 minutes, dehydration starts at 45 minutes

Scent Range - Alright lets get this over with... coming in at a.. 750 METERS WHILE MOVING? H-
How many while stationary? 1500!?!?! HOT DAMN.

Strats - Lets get right into this, for your smaller guys you basically just have to make sure to land your bites, if your in a gang of ceratos these smaller preds should be no big deal. especially if the contest is for a body, if you feel threatened by say, a utah or troodon pack. there are a couple of advantages you can give yourself
- Offensive Advantages: With cerato it has two distinct types of advantages, offensive and defensive. both its core abilities are an offensive and defensive ability. its main offensive advantages being its bacteria, allowing it through repeated attack to gain a better foothold in a fight, and of course the offensive advantage of ambushing. which every dinosaur can do i don't need to explain that one
Defensive Advantages: Environment, which yeah that's something every dino can use. but what we're here for is chuff buff. the chuff buff is the thing that tips the scale from an even fight to in your favor. sure you can kill a carno if you have the bacteria. but the carno can just as easily kill you if he gets at least one nice charge off. with chuff buff you fill your role of corpse bully to the fullest. contesting a pissed off and hungry cerato is more often than not, not worth the risk.

- For bigger midtiers that you share your home with, the carno and teno will be our prime examples. battle with a cerato is a war of attrition, rarely does the cerato play offensive as most of the time you will get ROCKED by a carno. with chuffbuff however you'd be surprised how much stronger you get. even something as small as an omni will boost you to max power turning you into a beast. The only real way you're killing carnos is in territorial body fights and ambushing the carnos, or the carno is dumb as ♥♥♥♥ pick your choice
- in tenos case it may be the opposite. where your chasing them. if your teno is especially conservative with his stamina costing attacks it is ill advised to fight them. at least alone. if your teno is very aggressive and gladly misses tail slams and kicks they are an ideal target, land a few charged bites or even normal bites without posing too much risk to yourself. make sure to count your bites, and avoid biting the tail unless going purely for damage once the prey starts vomiting its a relatively easy fight from there, since you can wait out the teno far easier on the cooldown. from there. especially if your in a group of ceratos. just watch the range of the tail
- fighting other ceratos is a contest of who can bite more. thats about it. You CAN use the charged bite to complicate the fight a little and try and increase your chances to do more damage than your opponent, but most cerato v cerato fights are just a brawl
- bigger dinos you prioritize getting bites in, often in a gang of ceratos. some dinos are harder than others of course and i don't recommend fighting such large dinos but it IS possible

Diet - perfect diet blah blah blah... Now, we have about two playstyles (one i prefer more but eh) one is a chaser based cerato going for carbs diet, this build is OK but it's not the best. THE OTHER build is the Full Health Regen. The TRIPLE S. Cerato has a low health anyways, getting this diet helps you keep your health high, and considering chuff buffs damage reduction, having a faster regen to use while taking LESS damage in fights is pretty darn good.

Nesting - The ceratosaurus makes it nest out of sticks and to put it aptly. is very aggressive, at least it's good when it is. contrary to whats expected keeping bodies around your nest makes it more defendable rather than easy to find, of course keep the nest hidden visually but littering bodies around not only for that good ol chuff buff but also to feed your kids is pretty great, although its not necessarily imperative to your survival and is probably not best to do if your say, a single parent. once babies get big enough they can accommodate you on bullying people off bodies. how sweet babies eat solid food at 12% growth

Pros : A Semi-Aquatic beast made of muscle and bone, tanky as hell, hits hard, goes unnoticed until its too late.
- Dying to anything that isn't stego or your own kind is near impossible, and even stegos can be entirely circumvented by just. Going into deeper water
- Massive blood and health pool
- Lunge to grab dinos, anything 4 tons and below is snatchable, Lunging drains stamina over time and is used to drown other dinos, in rivers it best to grab and either drown or take into deeper water and let go to bite to death, occasionally regrabbing them to take them back to deep water. The lunge also seems to kill grabbed deinos over time but i can't confirm this as of now until further testing
- Has access and control to a vital resource, Water. A deino dictates everything that happens in the water, easily using it to trap, catch and even block land dinos
- Its boundless strength makes any kill by the water fair game, assuming no stego is around. Utahs got a carno by the riverside? stroll on up and grab the body for yourself, what are they gonna do about it? pounce? maybe try and take down your 8k healtth with 65 damage a bite increments?
- Barely needs to eat, owing to its ambush hunting style, relying mainly on luck and strategic placement in commonly visited rivers
- Quite a nice turn in place, although it can be evaded its good if anything tries to stay behind you on land, the alt bite is a strong tool to catch things out with its insane range
- Can eat pretty much whatever it wants, most of the playable dinos are on its diet. You can even eat bones to gain every diet option.
- Fracture? whats a fracture?

Cons - Can take a while to grow, as apex predators do
- Kind of a joke, many people can drink from the shallow safespots carefree and actually having dinos stumble on you is kind of rare, while yes ambushing is a valid strategy if you have game knowledge on hotspots, areas that seem safe but you can lunge to, and various crossing areas
- Cannibal, so in water your not necessarily safe it can also be a pro if you need easy food but it can make you vulnerable to bigger crocs
- Apparently the devs interpretation of a alligator is a giant land fish that can't live outside of water for 5 minutes
- The map is very large, with plenty of rivers, the reason crocodiles irl are so successful is because there's so many animals to ambush, even with 100 players online, unless your in a hotspot the chances of a player drinking at your spot is almost certainly zero,
- there's another issue. players carry knowledge between lives. so once they know that deinos exist, they hold that knowledge and learn to avoid the water, with irl animals unless they've encountered a crocodile of some sort whether it was watching their bud get eaten by one or seeing one go into the water. are none the wiser to what a crocodile is, which carrying knowledge between deaths for everyone else is really cool. but its not good for you playing as the dino that relies on people not knowing your there
- Oh yeah also they suffer to fall damage, i mean they do weigh like 8 tons so its not surprising, just be carefull on land

.'. Tenonto - Easy prey, once you weigh at least 3.2 Tons you can lunge these with ease

.'. Pachycephalosaurus - Easy Prey, you can lunge these at 1,000 kilos thats not even 20% growth to take out a pachy

.'. Ceratosaurus - In groups may be threatening but only if your on land. go corpse snatch from the corpse snatcher if you wish.

S Troodon - Yes this makes sense to put something about hypsi size on the giant crocodiles diet yes i agree

S Carnotaurus - More easy prey... if you can catch it, could be dangerous in large numbers if you find yourself far enough inland but even along the riverside you should be safe, lungeable once you weigh 3.6 tons or greater

S Rat - Truly a pitiful dino against croc, you don't even have to be concerned on land about them, you oneshot them and their main attack is rendered useless by their tanky bleed resist and blood pool

S Deinosuchus, One of your main forms of nourishment, fighting on an even playing field is not recommended, neither is fighting two adults alone, be the first to attack, pick off injured crocs especially,
S Frog - Devs. is this some kind of joke? having a giggle? whats next we're putting hypsilophodon on the diet of trex?

// Stegosaurus - These, as of our post update 5 world. have become unkillable beasts only slain by mobs of crocs and eachother, if your solo don't even bother, if you have two people then MAYBE, Just maybe there is a possibility to make it.

// Elite Fish - Barely filling, but considering your slow hunger drain they can still be good to grab

// Gallimimus - Relatively easy to hunt, may not give too much food but not as bad as troodon

// Beipiaosaurus - Duck, you'll share your habitat with these small bois so don't be afraid to eat one or two, not much food but also not as much effort unless you go out of your way to chase one

Misc : Growing these isn't that bad if you keep to yourself and live off the elite fish and whatever else you find
- You can only detect animals on the surface of the water, nothing swimming beneath it, other deinos and otherwise
Might add more here, tbh not much to say that wasn't mentioned in pros and cons and will be mentioned in the stats and strats
- You cannot run on land with a lunged dino. goodbye landsnatcher build
- Pack limit of 2 members
- You can eat schooling fish for around 6% with no diet.

The Stats : 500 damage for a normal bite, and surprisingly the same amount of damage for an alt bite, rendering it only usefull for its range. Lunge does 350 damage.

- 5% per lunge to initiate, drains stamina over time if the grab is successful, The preyw ill drain out of stamina in 20 seconds, you run out after 30. interestingly enough the stamina costs change based on whether your in land or in water, the alt bite cost doubles to 10% on stam, and initiating a lunge TRIPLES all the way to 15%. Something else to note is that deinosuchus has a great amount more lunge range from water than on land, so don't be afraid to activate your lunge from water a little early

Stamina stats - (Land) Distance ran? a solid 75 meters, truly astonishing, 15 second run time... with 4:15 to fully regen stamina

Stam diet - 100 meters ran, 20 second run time, 1:25 Regen time

Swimming - Deino can swim on the surface a solid 450 meters before running out of stamina, 1 minute swim time, And 5 minutes to regen stam to full just by floating around, at zero stam you will sink till you either hit the bottom or gain enough stam to swim back up, deino swims at 27 kph
Stam diet - Pretty much the same value other than regen time being 4 minutes

Underwater - Deino can swim 500 meters underwater before running out of stam, 1 minute swim time, and 5 minute regen, Croc swims exactly 30 kph when underwater

Growth Times - Perfect diet, 30% growth takes 5 hours and 10 minutes, 5% growth takes
Sanctuaries - Uh... you want to go in one? Well No. Bees will sting you no matter WHAT growth you are.

Dehydration/Starvation/Oxygen, Deino dehydrates after 10 minutes (on land) Starvation occurs after 1 hour and 30 minutes , you can remain underwater for 10 minutes until you run out

Scent Range - 200 Meters moving, and a 400 meter range stationary. in the water while moving or being stationary, scent range extends to 400 meters

The Strats : So... in all my playing as deino, the best way to play deino is entirely different from the way the isle is normally played. gameplay slows down, becomes more logical, slow paced, and methodical. not in the way stego is though where your a lumbering giant who slowly lumbers from place to place smiting anyone who dares oppose you, no. Deinos strats are focused on other players, What do i mean? ( i know this sounds cryptic as hell but its not that complicated i promise)
Rather than hunting like a carno would, where your focused on the combat part, you need to focus on what your prey does OUTSIDE of combat, at what spots do players like to drink most? and not just hotspots, areas that SEEM safe but you can lunge to grab, spots people may drink before they get to a big hotspot like inbetween northwest and center. The best spots to remain hidden but also get as close to prey as possible before it notices you, camping the major crossings, Deino gameplay centers what you do, around what others are doing. now there are some combat encounters which we'll get to. but general deino "combat" is just being logical about how other players act to catch them best in an ambush. which will always be constantly changing, so make sure to change with the players. Also prioritize your targets, depending on your growth certain dinos will fill you up nicely, some won't. if your a juvi croc just about anything you can lunge is good food, at adult, you may serve to gain more from letting drinking juvis or even dinos like beipi and troodon live. If these smaller dinos drink safely, well any bigger more meaty prey that might be watching may think its perfectly safe, see where this is going? Now onto actual combat encounters, starting with stegos because why not, if your solo don't bother, but if you have a pair or more than a pair follow this simple strategy, if theres more than one stego also don't bother.Just mob the stego, lunge doesn't even stun anymore so if your in pairs the best thing you can is mob it by the water. going for headshots is absolutely important, as it doubles your damage from 500 to 1000. if the stego runs inland. DO NOT FOLLOW. they will outclass you on land, unless your rather uninjured and have multiple friends, i do not recommend chasing stegos inland, as they will just outrun you to headshot you with tail swings
- when it comes to fighting other crocs, the alt bite doesn't do any amount more than normal bite so maybe try and "ride" around your opponent? keep behind them or even under them to confuse them as most people are used to straight facetank fights. don't be afraid to run away, Don't try to lunge them
- Something else you can do is lead, them, act like your running away only to spin around with an alt bite and headshot them, you can even try and bait them to lunge you, as people will use lunge to catch up to other crocs, let them lunge you which will stun them longer than it stuns you, then spin around to get some bites in.
-When raiding on land, be it stealing corpses or attacking a nest too close to shore, keep your stamina at least above a certain level, and don't stray far from the water. you can tank plenty of hits from land dinos that aren't stegosaurus but try to get kills why they're trying to defend their kill. Such as taking out utahs or carnos as you take the corpse back to water

Diet - Try to get perfect diet in your younger growth,as a little freshspawn boi you won't be able to outrun or outswim any adult crocs, so getting to the growth you can outspeed adult crocs on land as fast as possible is very important, also make sure to eat bones, bones fill all three of your diet slots regardless of what diet you have, if you have no slots filled or slots unfilled it will be filled with a diet you don't have, for example, You have one slot with .'.? bones will fill up both the empty slots with S and //. once your at an adult stage you should go for straight S health regen. no questions asked

Nesting: Nesting as deino is ENTIRELY reliant on where you place your nest to begin with, small islands in rivers or larger bodies of water like swamp are perfect to nest on, as any crocs coming up you can detect with water sense, and stegos won't be able to reach the nest without taking heavy damage while swimming, and swimming there and back will often mean death, especially if you block them from swimming past with your own body. but if an island location is not available, try to nest within lunging range of whatever water source you intend to nest beside. this will allow you to defend your nest by dragging attackers to water to kill. or just fight on land, although stegos you may have to yield to with this strategy,now to build the actual nest your going to need sticks. which are quite troublesome to get and collect, before you lay your eggs, i cannot recommend enough to grab extra sticks, the moment you lay your eggs you must cover them to keep them warm, and keep adding sticks to keep them warm, which for deino is pain due to your slow ass speed, You solely devote yourself to heating that nest, no real time for water, food, nothing. Just getting those eggs warm, deinos nest in clutches of 6, once they hatch they eat solid food so no need to watch them too closely, just get them a good elite fish to eat or something similar. The best way to protect your babies is to bottleneck them in a spot you can protect, once the eggs hatch you don't need to watch the nest and can start switching locations, some of the best spots are the bottom (or top) of waterfalls or end of rivers, as you can place yourself between any adult crocs travelling along a river and your babies, if your mate is still with you fighting a solo adult should be an easy kill, Once your babies hit a certain age they will get kicked out of the group, but you can continue raising them if you want. once they hit around 50% they should be entirely self sufficient.

Pros - Very nimble dino, they have near unmatched agility and even have a special ability dedicated to dodging attacks
- their relatively high jump height allows them to reach higher areas to avoid predators like carno
- They have a very fast growth time, only about 30 minutes if you nail perfect diet
- Impressive stamina pool + Pretty good stamina regen = Super endurant
- Good to attack juvis with, its surprising agility makes it hard to hit while you dive in and out for attacks, just get used to its janky hitbox
- pretty durable, you can tank some hits but watch out for carnos, they will oneshot you unless they hit a tail shot, in which case you may live
- Loved by many, honestly the chances of you dying to a pachy or teno is pretty rare since dryos themselves are fairly rare so often they're a nice sight to see. Its like if you saw a unicorn, would you kill it? Actually don't answer that-
- Heals fractures pretty quickly almost hypsi levels of quick
- Can fall pretty far heights compared to their base jump height, watch far falls though, your not invincible to fall damage

Cons - Pounce is a straight pin, if a utah with even half a stamina bar pounces you you'll most likely die before you can even get up, let alone collapse from the bleed
- Dryo's hitbox when pecking is very strange, you bite almost a full heads length in front of you, be sure to compensate and bite a little earlier to land your hits
- No burrows? ):
- You will live your life very lonely, unless you get a friend to grow dryo with you you may never meet another dryo in your entire lifetime
- every carnivore that can catch you, has a reason to, being on a rare to get diet, adds special incentive
- Absolutely useless in herds, they have no fighting ability and if you use the excuse of "well they could be good scouts, you may as well pick a pachy as a scout since they can not only fend for themselves, but are only about 2 kilometers slower

.'. Red Currant - Idk what these are, they look like cranberries, the old legacy bush food

.'. Horned Melon - Easy to find spiky melons, you can even pick them up

S Wild Potato Root - So.. you eat the root as well as the vine, but for some reason only certain ones you can dig and eat the root, and some you eat the vine... sure...

S Sumac - A nostalgic red flowering plant in swamp regions

S Chantrelle Mushroom - Shrooms, no more stoned dryo sadly

// Wild Potato Vine - So, you eat the vine itself and NOT the potato... sure

// Russula - More Shrooms, Dryo Colored

Migration Zones - Swamp, Riverdelta, Northeast plains

Misc - Kinda meh atm, not very special in many ways, the dodge ability goes in the direction you look, that's about all of note for misc section
- Pack limit is 10 members
- Mean bees :(
-Cannot dodge while carrying food

Combat Stats - Biteforce and health are obvious just look at the character screen, so all that leaves is stamina costs and the alt attacks, the alt attacks deal the same damage EXCEPT the kick, which deals about 45 damage. everything else is the same ol 20 damage. a jump is 6%, and an alt attack costs 2% regardless of what kind of alt attack. and the dodge has an odd way of measurement, dodges can be used in charges of two, if you use these charges in a burst or drawn out, does not matter you have a max of two until you regen, regening a charge takes about ten seconds. and does not change based on whether your sitting or standing

Stam Stats - On a full stamina bar you can run about 2.5 kilometers, With a runtime of 3:20 minutes, regen time takes around 2 minutes (sitting) 5 Minutes (Standing)

Carb diet - you can run around 3.25 Kilometers, with a runtime of 4:25.

Growth times: Perfect diet takes 30 minutes, 30% growth takes 35 minutes, and on one diet growth takes 45 minutes
- Sanctuaries end at around 69% growth, and bees will start attacking at... Basically full adult, otherwise the bees don't care.

Dehydration/Starvation - dehydration 45 minutes, starvation 30 minutes

Scent Range - 350 Meters

Strats - Dryo may be viewed as a weakling but is infact a true solider when you want to kill baby dinos, every bite has to be used early otherwise you will most certainly miss, Its agility is it main strength so make sure to use it not only to evade attacks but to juke out and land your own hits, don't try and facetank things, it only ends in disaster for you, You may be able to facetank a ptera but any smart ptera would take you out from air, every other dino just use your speed and agility to evade, try to stick to dense forest to remain hidden. for survivability, just be as skittish as possible. Movement? predator, run away. Noises you can identify as a predator or can't identify at all? run the other direction. Run Away. and you will get to live, another day.

Nesting - Nesting as dryo is not too dissimilar from hypsi, place your nest in an area that is preferably hidden, be it high up or in a crawlspace, or just dense foliage. Quick growth time makes nesting much easier but its a little longer than hypsi nesting, nest around at least TWO diet options for easy growth while giving a large amount of choices for places to nest at. Nesting requires no sticks and you just make your nests on the spot like most herbis, Nest clutch size is 8 eggs, and sit on them to warm them, babies eat solid food after 29% growth

Diet - Go for full Carbs, dryo is only good for running anyways

Pros - Incredible agility and small stature allows for quick maneuvers and very hasty getaways
- you also regen stamina regardless of whether your running or sitting after using a fully charged jump
- For its size hypsi has a very high jump height, topping out the current roster. allowing you to scale high rocks and cliffs for safety
- Spit ability, easy to use, hard to master. The only ranged attack in the game (atm). If you successfully land a spit, you can temporarily blind an opponent, works best as a support tool
- Can live virtually anywhere, diets are next to useless for a hypsi other than keeping bad diet away its pretty much useless to invest in the diet stuff for hypsi
-Spawns right at adult so no growth time (unless your nested)
- Heals fractures very quickly

Cons - Small health and bleed pool make them literal glass, live fast, die hard kind of life style
- Horrible oxygen pool, i wouldn't recommend swimming at all, sometimes your oxygen actively decreases as your swimming, and although it appears your swimming faster, that's just relative to your size. And most predators can just run in the water after you since whats deep for you is much shallower for them
-Pitiful attack power makes them useless in a fight, only use for combat is their spit ability. still a fun prey dinosaur to play though
-falling slightly higher than your max jump height may break your legs
- Kinda slow, its not that bad since your small and agile but running in a straight line is a good way to get dead by just about anything

.'. Horned Melon - Small spiky melons that can be found at swamp

.'. Coconut - Gl breaking these little chicken, found on coastal migration zones

.'. Mango - The classics, common coastal plant

.'. Jackfruit - GRAHHH THE FRUITSSSS

.'. Banana - Nanners

S Sumac - A swamp based flowering plant

S Chantrelle Mushroom - A mushroom resembling sanctuary mushrooms but not red, found in swamps

S Dulse - Red Coast Cabbage

S Fireweed - Coastal pink flowers

S Fiddlehead - A jungle based fern plant

S Trillium - Jungle based vibrant red flowers

// Russula - Teel Colored, Swamp Dwelling mushrooms, although they can also be found on coasts

// Papaya - Uncommon jungle plant that creates funny fruit

// Brazil Nut - Tall flowering trees may drop a collection of nuts that can be eaten, found in jungles

Migration Zones - Swamp, Swamp Jungle, East coast

Stats - Pretty obvious just look at the character screen, the only thing that needs real elaboration is jump and charged jump. but we'll also measure food used per spray, jumping normally uses around 2%, because of how hypsis jump works its very random, but a full charged jump is 25% stamina always. another thing of note for fully charged jumps is that they will regen at an increased rate,even while trotting. so although the jump uses 25% you regen about 15% of your lost stamina. One food spray uses 10% of your food meter

Stamina Stats - Distance hypsi can cover on a full stamina bar is a whopping 2.35 Kilometers, with a run time of about 3:35, The regen time is 1:45 seconds (Sitting) 5 Minutes (Standing)

Carb diet - The values just get even bigger, a distance value of a gigantic 3.1 kilometers .with a runtime of around 4:45 , The regen time is the same

Starvation/Dehydration - 30 minutes dehydration, 45 minutes starvation

Scent Range - 350 Meters

Growth Times - Hypsi spawns at adult, so we'll only measure growth time as taken from hatchling growths

Strats - With a good enough eye and some common sense, this is a good beginner dino, not very many predators can effectively catch you if you use the environment to your advantage, keep out of open plains and use your agility to evade attacks, carno lacks the turn to take you out effectively. And utahs have a smaller hitbox to evade and juke out. Boar you should def avoid though.
if a lil deino grabs you and you don't get oneshot, get ready to die. oxygen is horrible on hypsi and you'll drown in seconds. Your only true predator is pteranodon and so make sure to watch the skies as they will oneshot you if they hit your body or head, heavy cover should suffice to evade them but if your making a nest be sure to put it in areas hard for pteranodons and to get into such as dense jungle, concealed caverns or even just hidden in a bush

Misc - The spit ability does damage! its not much its about the same as your bite of 2 damage, but damage nonetheless (good for sniping hatchlings)
- pack limit of 10 members
- hatched hypsis do not need to go to sanctuaries once they can eat solid food, infact, bees will ATTACK not only adult hypsis, but ANY age of hypsi that can eat solids
- Males have much longer eyebrows and tail feathers compared to females

Nesting- nesting as a hypsi, you cannot protect your young, being a small very fragile chicken, so you should always nest in hard to reach or very hidden areas, small crawl spaces or dense foliage should do, Hypsi young grow quick, so your nest is not as heavy a liability as say, a stego nest. so not as much thought needs to go into the nest. if a predator is close to your nest and you feel could be a threat, try and lead them away by making calls that direct them away from the nest (without putting yourself in heavy danger) Nest in places that have at least ONE diet option available. Hypsi nesting requires sticks and is very unique in that the nest is a large dome structure with a main entrance that you lay the eggs in. Hypsis lay in a clutch of 6 eggs and babies eat solid food after 32% Hypsis appear unable to use the manage nest function

Diet - Go for full Carbs, hypsi health regen is still based, just go for longer running time being a prey animal

Pros - Only dino that can (as of now) Deal fractures, being body, head and leg fractures. each with their own unique debuffs
-Excellent defensive / offensive capabilities, being able to swing their alt attack for defense against utahs, and switching to the offense with their charge ability
- Decent jump height allows them to maneuver rocks to avoid their biggest threat, carnotaurus
- they have quite a good stamina pool with moderate regen, although running will drain that stamina real quick, combo it with a stam diet and your vibing
- Headbutt can be charged to deal more damage and fracture damage
- Can quite easily use it's special attacks as they use very little stamina

Cons : Pretty weak to fall damage, getting a leg fracture only a little bit over its jump height, leg fractures on pachy are also VERY fatal, disabling your ability to even fight
- Carno lands their charge? your most likely dead, maybe you live by a scrap of health, you only have about 50 more health than a utah so your not much less fragile than one
- Many things are WAY faster than you, carno alone tops you out by more than 10 kph
and your only slightly faster than a tenonto
- bleed can rack up quick, so make sure to watch it, although pachys bleed resist has gotten a good buff to resist utahs
- Miss your charge? you'll most likely get hit on the cooldown
- Very weak in its earlier growth stages, similar to utah


.'. Variegated Orange - Still unsure of what variegated means, but clearly it must mean something.. anyways the oranges spawn at plains biomes

.'. Coconut - Can only be eaten if cracked by a pachy or found cracked when it falls from a coconut tree, they look just like palm tress just look for the coconuts or smell em out. spawn at coastal migration zones

.'. Mango - Easily found on the coast along with the coconuts

.'. Banana - Found some at the Highlands jungle/plains Migration zone, appear in small clusters and well... it's a banana. duh

.'. Jackfruit -Tall trees with large round fruits, cool

S Dulse A small plant found on coastal migration zones, hard to spot but is recognizable by looking like a red cabbage

S Fireweed - A pink-ish colored flower found in coastal areas

S Agave - You learn something new everyday "And agave is practically the more redneck alovera that you can make tequila out of, grows in places like Arizona-" The_EGC

S Sunchoke Flower - You eat the flower itself, no digging like other dinos do

S Fiddlehead - A small fern like plant found in jungles, for example the Highlands jungle/plains and coastal jungle migration zones

S Trillium - A bright red flower found in jungles, these are the same plants that used to be WAY back in evrimas start when it was just teno and utah

// Russula - Small teel/cyan colored mushrooms that can be found on the coasts

// Cashew - A tree like plant that drops the cashews

// Pumpkin - Found in plains biomes, decently sized round and orange- cmon you know what a pumpkin is

// Papaya - The Mythical Papaya

// Brazil Nuts - Tall flowering trees found in jungle areas will drop edible nuts

Migration Zones - Coasts, Big Island Pond, Coastal Jungle, Plains River, Ocean Delta,

Misc - Not a very good swimmer, don't try it, its not as bad as trying to swim as a dino like carno or stego but i wouldn't advise swimming unless its to cross a river
- What are new pachy calls? they're kinda garbage ngl, legacy pachy sounded better and legacy pachy was just a whole ass horse
- really good with buds, pachy is pretty viable solo but with friends you may be able to fracture a carno efficiently and flee, or try and take it down
- Can achieve a "crown" of sorts, if you headbutt stuff enough blood begins to build up on your dome, as a show of how many you've murdered. Its gets washed off when you swim though
- Take less damage on their heads, a 25% decrease in damage, which for higher damages like carno bites can make a big difference
- Has a noise for charging up its headbutt, if your running its barely audible, honestly doesn't really affect anything
- Pack limit is 8 members

Combat Stats : Base bite damage: 30, Alt swing damage: 75 + Knockdown on utah and smaller, also stuns any dino below 1 ton, headbutting without charging does somewhere around 75 damage + stun on pachy and around dryo sizes its a knockdown, plus fracture damage, Fully charged headbutts deal around 125 damage. For SOME reason the devs removed the stun on fracture they had in hordetesting, at least you can parry carno charges. The fully charges headbutt will knockdown dilo, and doesn't stun anything higher than 750 kilos, ONLY knocks down
-Pachy deals no bleed damage but DOES deal fracture damage, fracture damage is not measurable in a number, but you can basically go by one fully charged headbutt will break a part of a carno, utah or pachy, but teno's and ceras can tank two before getting a fracture (most of the time)
-Normal bite uses no stamina, The headswing attack uses 2% stamina, The tap charge/coconut smash uses 2% and a full charged headbutt uses 3% a mere 1% increase over non charged headbutt, jump uses 6%

Stamina Stats - 2.3 Kilometers meters of distance, with a run time of 3:20, and a regen time of 2:10 (Sitting) and 5 minutes (Standing)

Carbs diet - 3 Kilometers of distance, with a run time of 4:25, And a regen time of the same times

Growth Times: Perfect diet, 1 Hour. 30% growth 1 Hour 10 minutes, 1 diet 1 hour, 25 minutes
Sanctuary ends at 65%, The bees begin stinging at 68%

Dehydration/Starvation - dehydration starts at 45 minutes, starvation same time of 45 minutes

Scent Range - 250 meters

Strats : As a herbivore you goal is not to actively find fights but avoid them, yes i know this is the "combat" section of the guide but its also meant to help you survive
- Avoid the open areas, unless in large groups these areas can be quite deadly, if a migration zone sends you to these kinds of areas, try to lurk around the back of them , or close enough to the treeline you can dip if an emergency arises
- When faced with an opponent, you will have to employ different strategies, pachy is a good mixup dino, being able to swap between offensive and defensive as it pleases, for example if your facing alot of smaller opponents, like utah's, play defensively while occassionally mixing up to catch utahs off guard, don't focus on charging them, charge them once they're knocked down from an alt attack. when facing larger carnivores like carno, you may take on a more offensive approach to land at least a fracture so you can make a hasty getaway, of course watch out for those insanely speedy instant charges, you CAN parry them at least. Dilo is a strange case of both. as the dilo is strong enough to facetank you, but also able to be knocked down with a full charged ram, and stunned with the swing. so you have to take a mix of offensive to catch them with the charge (just don't waste your charges) But you can't wail on them once they are down, because they can get up and facetank, so you have to gain distance and play defense until you can stun them again, which isn't too long maybe 4-5 seconds
- Body fractures drain stamina, i think its twice as much. leg fractures slow opponents down, not as slow as legacy legbreak but definitely a significant speed reduction, and head fractures cloud your vision, which in dense forest can be surprisingly a great hinderance. use these to your advantage
- Keep the location of any mud pools in your mind, utah bleed can hurt quite a bit if they get good bleed on you, you can also use your alt swing in the mud so although not useful against carno's its great to use against utah's
- Have buddies, pachy with friends is WAY stronger than pachy solo, like substantially so
- Pachy can keep a fully charged headbutt charged up after skidding, use this to your advantage, as this is VERY strong
- Pachy is still a tad nerfed. it WAS good in hordetesting, but for some reason they removed stun on fracture, oh ♥♥♥♥♥♥ well, fracture and run away, no other choice

Nesting - Nesting as pachy is straightforward, make a mound, lay your eggs. keep em heated, the babies eat solid food at around 22%, simple, the difference here is how you protect your nest, stego and teno can hold their nests like its a game of capture the point. pachy is fragile and thrives on movement against bigger targets, most pachy nesting boils down to hiding nests in safe spots, areas carnos can't get to or areas a nest may have trouble being found, your main defense is a great offense, patrol your nesting area for threats, and attack vigorously when you find one, keep fights as far away from the nest as possible don't even let them know it exists. You can fight back, the nest can't, dinos like utah you can be a little more defensive but in the case of carnos you may as well try and fracture them once and run away, you can't be on the offensive with them, you can only hit and run. attempting a sustained fight is not recommended

Diet - Go for sanctuary mushrooms (perfect diet for juvi) and then once you hit adult you have about two good options, you can invest in a full Carbs diet, to run extra run long in emergencies but with no stamina regen increase. Or you can invest in full health regen diet, as pachy's small health pool makes certain fights a little rough where you might need a faster regen for health. diets such as bleed resist or regen are very meh and only really good for bleeder predators like utah, which can be dealt with in other ways

(I know the character screen doesn't have all the diets, but trust me. teno has ALOT)

Pros - Versatile dino that is quite hardy and robust
- Can dish out bleed and stuns like nobodies business
- Deals with fall damage decently well for its size, about 3 headheights taller than it like carno, although teno is a little short so its not as high as carno
- Impressive fracture resist, being able to take a good few charges before a fracture is given, this includes falls, you can fall far enough to take damage but not get a leg fracture, however at especially high heights you will get both damaged and leg fractured
- Impressive against bleed, and has a good amount of health
- Excellent trot speed as well as sprinting speed, they can go far distances very easily. coupled with a stamina diet they can truly go far
- Hits hard enough to deal with its main predators
- Mud is quite useful, against multiple carnos/ceratos you'll probably die trying to use mud against them but against one you should win, you can use tail slams in mud but not kicks, so maybe stick to the edge of the mud to quickly hop out and land kicks, against utahs/troodons they can't do anything, you can also use alt claw in the mud

Cons - Moderate growth time makes them easy prey in early stages, being defenseless against an adult carno if it can't stun it
- Special attacks such as slam and kick cost a good chunk of stamina, stam management is a MUST on this dino.
- Long tail hitbox makes it pretty easy to hit, this only matters against dinos like cerato and carno that may try and nip the end of your tail to rack up damage but isn't a big con.

Misc - Teno can jump? how though? it weighs 1600 kilograms which is about 3500 pounds, how does it jump
- Teno also blurs the line between small tier and midtier, its quite strong for its weight but at the same time i wouldn't say its at Diablo or Para levels of strong
- Has different animations for its 3 and 4 call depending on age, neat detail
- Pack limit of 8 members

.'. Mountain Ash - A easy to find highlands plant

.'. Mango - The funny red fruit

.'. Coconut - How does teno even get these? bro can't break coconuts

.'. Jackfruit - Tree that makes funny fruit found in jungle

.'. Red Currant - A river delta dwelling plant, old legacy bush

.'. Bananas - You rhyme orange with banana that's bornana

.'. Variegated Orange - found some of these at the northeast plains
[b].'. Marigold[/b] -Hehehe flowmer [previewimg=31712615;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230501191825_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]S Radish Flower[/b] - The un-dug part of the radish, found at highlands [previewimg=31534490;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230417002631_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]S Fireweed[/b] - A pink flowering plant found in highlands [previewimg=34084370;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116130951_1.jpg][/previewimg] S Dulse - Red cabbage [previewimg=34084367;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116130927_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]S Wild Potato Root [/b]- Potaters. [previewimg=31699922;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230430210104_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]S Agave[/b] - Plains dwelling aloe vera ripoff [previewimg=31534792;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230417013841_1.jpg][/previewimg] S Trillium - Runnin out of things to say ngl [previewimg=34084284;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116101650_1.jpg][/previewimg] S Fiddlehead - Teno has so many diet options it's unreal [previewimg=34084226;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116101611_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]S Sunchoke Flowers [/b]- The flower not the roots. om nom nom [previewimg=31534817;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230417014701_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]// Radish Root[/b] - The real RADISH part of the radish plants, also found in highlands, look exactly the same as radish flower, just identifiable by scent [previewimg=31534490;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230417002631_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]// Wild Potato Vine[/b] - Not-Potaters [previewimg=31699922;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230430210104_1.jpg][/previewimg] // Cashew - NUTS GRAHHHHH [previewimg=34526815;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231224162825_1.jpg][/previewimg] // Pumpkin - The orange sphere of the plains [previewimg=31712793;sizeFull,floatLeft;20230501192040_1.jpg][/previewimg] // Papaya - THE PAPAYA GRAHHH [previewimg=34527632;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231224192055_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]// Brazil Nuts[/b] - Nuts, hehehee [previewimg=34086122;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116162119_1.jpg][/previewimg] // Russula - Coastal mushr- Why does teno have SO MANY DIETS GRAHHHH [previewimg=34084355;sizeFull,floatLeft;20231116130858_1.jpg][/previewimg] [b]Migration Zones[/b] - Highlands, River Plains, Riverdelta, Northeast Plains. Coastal jungle, NE coast, Rocky Coast [b]Stats[/b] - A normal bite is 35 damage, And alt claw deals 125 Damage + bleed, And the kick does 275 + bleed and knocks down dinos pachy sized and smaller and stuns dinos its size up to around carno. The tail slam does 150 damage with no bleed and seems to knock down dinos below like 1500-ish since a tail slam will knock down a cerato but not teno, just assuming its 1500 - A normal jump costs about 6% stamina (starting to see a pattern in jumping costs) An alt front claw swing uses 2% stamina, A kick uses 6%, And the tail slam uses 8% stamina [b]Stam Stats [/b]- 1,750 Meters of distance, Run time is 2:35 , And regen time is 2:20 (sitting) and 5 minutes (standing) [b]Carbs diet[/b] - 2.5 kilometers of distance, Run time is 3:25 minutes. [b]Growth Times[/b] - Perfect diet: 2 hours, 30% growth: 2 Hours 20 Minutes, 5% growth 2 hours, 50 minutes - Sanctuaries end at 26% Bees ALSO begin stinging at 26% [b]Dehydration/Starvation[/b] - Dehydration, 30 minutes, Starvation, 1 Hour [b]Scent Range[/b] - 400 Meters, impressi
.'. Marigold -Hehehe flowmer

S Radish Flower - The un-dug part of the radish, found at highlands

S Fireweed - A pink flowering plant found in highlands

S Dulse - Red cabbage

S Wild Potato Root - Potaters.

S Agave - Plains dwelling aloe vera ripoff

S Trillium - Runnin out of things to say ngl

S Fiddlehead - Teno has so many diet options it's unreal

S Sunchoke Flowers - The flower not the roots. om nom nom

// Radish Root - The real RADISH part of the radish plants, also found in highlands, look exactly the same as radish flower, just identifiable by scent

// Wild Potato Vine - Not-Potaters

// Cashew - NUTS GRAHHHHH

// Pumpkin - The orange sphere of the plains

// Papaya - THE PAPAYA GRAHHH

// Brazil Nuts - Nuts, hehehee

// Russula - Coastal mushr- Why does teno have SO MANY DIETS GRAHHHH

Migration Zones - Highlands, River Plains, Riverdelta, Northeast Plains. Coastal jungle, NE coast, Rocky Coast

Stats - A normal bite is 35 damage, And alt claw deals 125 Damage + bleed, And the kick does 275 + bleed and knocks down dinos pachy sized and smaller and stuns dinos its size up to around carno. The tail slam does 150 damage with no bleed and seems to knock down dinos below like 1500-ish since a tail slam will knock down a cerato but not teno, just assuming its 1500
- A normal jump costs about 6% stamina (starting to see a pattern in jumping costs) An alt front claw swing uses 2% stamina, A kick uses 6%, And the tail slam uses 8% stamina

Stam Stats - 1,750 Meters of distance, Run time is 2:35 , And regen time is 2:20 (sitting) and 5 minutes (standing)

Carbs diet - 2.5 kilometers of distance, Run time is 3:25 minutes.

Growth Times - Perfect diet: 2 hours, 30% growth: 2 Hours 20 Minutes, 5% growth 2 hours, 50 minutes
- Sanctuaries end at 26% Bees ALSO begin stinging at 26%

Dehydration/Starvation - Dehydration, 30 minutes, Starvation, 1 Hour

Scent Range - 400 Meters, impressive

The Strats - In most fights you will prioritize defense over offense, but using your trot speed to pressure an attacker into wasting more stamina without wasting your own, conserving stamina is top priority, it is precious for teno and possibly one of the most important things to watch
- When facing smaller weaker predators, your alt claw will be very useful to deter things like utahs and even pachy's your tail slam is good for its range to stun small targets but the alt claw is excellent if you can't flip around fast enough to dish out a kick or tail slam, this applies to fighting bigger dinos as well like carno, if a carno is keeping close but not close enough to land a stun, an alt claw can be good to add just a bit of damage and bleed.
- Use the enviornment, i cannot stress this enough, teno's impressive swim speed, ability to jump, and good mud advantage gives it so many options to hold a position, Hop on a high rock, get to shallow water to evade troodons or even outswim a carno across a river to try and lose them or attack them if they decide to cross. Even something as simple as going in a bush can cloud the visibility of your attacker and make them unsure of your next move
Kick is way better than tail slam, the only advantage of tail slam is its ability in range which is good against the smaller predators and keeping distance, go for kicks once your opponent is stunned, for example carnos, the tail slam can be used to grab them from a distance, to be perfect to run up and dish out two kicks or so, also use your alt claw. that 125 damage can rack up, especially on ceratos
- Have friends to cover you, going solo is viable, but leads to some situations where you can't win namely more than one carno or cerato, if you get caught in the open you will get gangbanged by carnos and ceratos, with friends this isn't as deadly a matchup
- with cerato in particular, trot away from them, if theres one or two you may be able to kill them. one is possible, two is pushing it. water can work but not as well as it does on carno, cerato cannot jump so if you trot away, dishing out tail slams as you trot towards you choice of rock you can hop onto the rock for safety, keep moving at all times and you should be alright. but always keep moving until you find your safe spot to hide on. it forces the ceratos to use stamina and makes it harder for them to rack up bacteria on you. if your in a rough spot, you can always try and outrun them
- In your younger ages caution is basically a necessity. you don't want to get ♥♥♥♥♥♥ over by utah pins, herrera leaps or deino lunges. basically be a schizo off his meds being cautious of every noise when you're just a lil guy.

Nesting - Creating your nest is simple, no sticks required. Tenos nest in clutches of 6 and heat by sitting on eggs like most herbivores. For placement i recommend getting creative often the dense area of swamp is the best place or south, you can also use your jump to get to some unique nesting locations out of the reach of carnos. Your babies have a slower growth time but its not that bad with two growth diets, or perfect diet if you can manage to get it for them. At a certain age they can stray pretty far from the nest and should be fine, its the babies under 25% you have to watch incase a carno rolls up, make sure they're in group range though and have access to some form of safety and aren't just travelling into the open for fun, other than that. not much to it, tenonto is strong enough to hold its ground so you don't need to patrol your nesting area. babies eat solid food at around 10%

Diet - Perfect diet in younger stages and afterwards i recommend S for full health regen, teno is quite the brawler, so expect alot of fights your way, you can get stamina but extra running time or not, you ain't outrunning a carno

Pros : Untouchable by all but your own kind and swarms of predators. Like 10+ packs of utahs or carnos and deino mobs, but deinos you can avoid by walking away from any water source
- Hits hard as hell, headshots on any dino that isn't another stego or deino is instant death, body shots on anything with less than 1250 health, also oneshot
- Walking tank, Huge blood pool. Only thing you'll end up dying from, assuming your a good stego and know how to deal with carnivore swarms, is your own kind
- impressive area denial capability, anything you say goes, don't like the local tenos? bully em out your way. everything moves out of your way except deinos but if they're on land they will definitely move quick
-pretty hardy, can live wherever they please, the best places to live are areas with alot of marigold but eh you can go where you want
- Fractures? what are those?
- For weighing six tons, they sure can fall far, they can fall their entire bodyheight down a drop, which is about 10 feet. and be perfectly fine, for a 6 ton animal that's absolutely wild

Cons : Really slow, which shouldn't be a con if your playing stego like you should but i'm sure to some people its still a negative
- the swing has good range but a somewhat long cooldown if you use the long animation, the swing uses stamina so if you run out of stamina that's probably GG there since swinging is your main form of attack
- Everyone hates you. like no joke people despise stego due to its strength, mainly because people use it to murder for the fun of it, so people will go out of their way to kill you if they can regardless if your on their diet or even if they're a carnivore
- Can have some trouble getting perfect diet to grow quick, so in younger stages if you get noticed by something that wants you dead your probably dead, once you get to decent size you hit hard enough to defend yourself from the utahs and occasional carno though

.'. Mountain Ash - Red flowering large highlands plant

.'. Horned Melon - Hehehe Horny Melon. Found in swamp

S Radish Flower - The un-dug part of the radish, found in highlands

S Fireweed - Highlands flowering plant

S Sumac - Swamp dwelling plant, similar to mountain ash but smaller

S Chantrelle Mushroom - Ironic that these were the first time i discovered plants being poisonous to certain herbis, as stego no less. Now it's on the big loafs diet, found in swamp

// Radish Root - The ROOT of the radish. ik, Shocking.

// Russula - Teel colored swamp dwelling mushroom

Migration Zones - Highlands, Swamps, Coastal Jungle

Misc - Easier to grow than you think if you just hide with two diets in the middle of nowhere
- heckin chonker
- has the first instance of real sexual dimorphism other than colors, females have more pointed plates while the males have rounded plates
- Pack limit of 5 members

The Stats - Biteforce is 50 damage, and they do a whopping 1250 damage per swing, they have no alt attack, nor does holding alt and swinging change the damage
- Only thing they do that uses stamina is swinging, which uses 5% stamina per swing, so you get 20 swings for a full stamina bar

Stamina stats - A unsurprising 600 meter distance to run, run time being 1:25 and the regen taking 2:40 (sitting) 5 Minutes (standing)

Stam diet - Distance ran increases to 800 meters, which compared to most dinos isn't the BEST but its better than normal, Run time increases to 1:50, which is pretty good

Growth Times -
Sanctuary Cutoff begins at 11%, Bees begin stinging at 13%

Dehydration/Starvation - Dehydration starts after a whole HOUR, and Starvation doesn't occur until... 1 hour 30 minutes

Scent Range - 250 Meters

The Strats - One of the best ways to stay alive as stego is to keep calm, don't panic and start swinging out of fear, be precise to keep your head out of danger, and don't bother swinging if you'll miss, even if they get a hit off, your tanky nature will protect you from quite a few hits
- When you use turn in place, your head turns to an almost 90 degree angle towards where your turning to, use this to your advantage to hide your head as things go for it
- to cope with deinos, if you get attacked by water, run a little bit inland, if they continue chasing, get headshots with swings, when they catch up and start biting, run a little ahead and keep headshotting, this will run through a deinos 8k health quick. if they decide not to chase? move on with your business, you can try and fight hem by the waterside but often this will just injure you more rather than you getting a kill on a deino
- Utilise the enviornment, stuff like shallow water, mud, dense trees and bushes, even the side of a cliff can be usefull, mud in particular is great since you can still swing in mud
- When facing other stegos, prioritize getting headshots, body shots are good and all, but if your stego opponent does a long swing animation, even if he gets a hit off if you run ahead of him while he's stuck in the animation and get a headshot you will do MASSIVE damage, also its much easier to be the defender rather than the aggressor
- Everything else? just trade hits or use the enviornment against, you can swing and hit utahs as they pounce off of you so use that, and with carnos you'll often be trading hits with them
- Cerato is kinda scary now, being an actually competent opponent in groups, keep calm, big groups of ceratos thrive on missed swings, if they have a body, move away from it, either they leave you alone or leave their damage resist to fight you, after that. begin making your way to an environmental protection such as mud or water. if they rack up vomit on you, they're going to start doing a bit more damage, make sure to know where salt licks and water is so you don't start taking damage from dehydration or starvation

Nesting - Stegos nest in clutches of five, and nest like most herbivores do, by making large mounds of dirt and heating their nest by laying on it, where you place your nest is very important, try to find a spot with at least two diet options, so an area like swamp is perfect, preferably find something that's up against an object, like the dam at swamp, a rock, a little cave, anything. stego can easily hold its ground if it puts itself between predators and its children, in the open you can protect your kids but its easier giving predators another obstacle. beyond that? its pretty straightforward, just keep track of your children and protect them, also when drinking go a little deeper in and put yourself parallel to the water, making a barrier between any possible deinos and your children

Diet : Go For S, You ain't gonna be running anywhere, get that FULL health regen, or if you're scared of utahs bleed resist i guess... but health regen is WAY better

Hello! thank you for using my guide fr, i was kinda unhappy with how deserted the official wiki is, so i decided to make my own "wiki" its got a bit more personality in it than just listing off facts, at least i hope it came across that way. Anyways, i will continue to update this guide as new dinos are released, and although i'd say i did a good job with the guide, if YOU feel like anything should be in this guide please tell me, the only way i can make this guide the best it can be is with the help of others, whether you think theres something i missed that should be included, or have some strategies you know for your main dino that i may not know. or even just wanna add a little misc thing you noticed about a dino. i'm open to any kind of help, and if you have any questions about how i got certain values, like damage values and stamina cost values, just ask. its more or less just math but if your curious i can share how that works. anyways thanks for reading honestly.